DRAFT OF ONE-PIECE DRESS SLEEVE
(Special Measurement Method)
An image should appear at this position in the text. An image should appear at this position in the text.
An image should appear at this position in the text.
The illustrations above show how to take the folowing arm measurements:
1. Underam lenglth -- from armhole to wrist.
2. Arm Circumference - a little below armliole.
3. Elbow Circumference --- with arm bent up.
4. Overarm Length --- from shoulder to wrist.
5. Wrist-Circumference - a loose measurement.
HOW TO DRAFT THE SLEEVE FOUNDATION, SIZES 12 TO 20
The sleeve draft provides for a 2", minimum ease allowance around the arm at muscle. For example: If arm measurement is 11" for size 16, make sleeve pattern 13" wide, or 6-1/2" from D to E.
When drafting the sleeve, line A-B should be directly in center ot draft.
| SIZE | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A to B | 17-1/4 | 17-1/2 | 17-3/4 | 18 | 18-1/4 | Equals Underarm Length. |
| A to C | 3/4 | 3/4 | 3/4 | 3/4 | 3/4 | Mark point C, on line A-B. |
| D to E | 6 | 6-1/4 | 6-1/2 | 6-3/4 | 7 | Equals 1/2 of arm measure, plus 1" ease.. |
| A to F | 8-5/8 | 8-3/4 | 8-7/8 | 9 | 9-1/8 | Equals 1/2 of line A-B. |
| G to H | 6 | 5-1/4 | 5-1/2 | 5-3/4 | 6 | Equals 1/2 of Elbow Measure. |
| Square across at point B, indefinite length, for wristlilne | ||||||
| J to K | 22-1/4 | 22-5/8 | 23 | 23-3/8 | 23-3/4 | Equals Overam Length, through G and D |
| L to M | 22-1/4 | 22-6/8 | 23 | 23-3/8 | 23-3/4 | Equals Overarm Length, through H and E |
| K to M | colspan=6 | Connect for top of Sleeve cap line. |
II. GUIDE LINES FOR SLEEVE CAP
K to N - Equals 1/2 of line K-M. K to O - Equals 1/4 of line K-M. M to P - Equals 1/4 of line K-M. K to Q - equals 1/2 of K-0. D to R - Equals 1/2 of D-C. M to S - Equals 1/2 of M-E, less 1/2". C to T - 1".
Draw the guide lines from O to Q to R for front of sleeve) for back of sleeve, from P to S to T.
SLEEVE CAP
For top of cap, draw a curved line from S to N to Q; for bottom of cap, from Q to A to S as shown by dotted lines.
III. SHAPING THE SLEEVE
Shape the draft of sleeve as follows; J to U - 1/2"
U to G - Connect
U to V - Equals 1/2 of wrist measure. Draw this line 3-1/2" long for size 16, with 1/8" grade for each size, bringing point V, about 3/4" below line J-L.
V to H - Connect.
V to W - Equals 1/2 of line U-V.
W to F - Connect.
IV
To complete the sleeve, fold drafting paper on line Q-G, and trace from Q to A to F; then open paper and fold again on line G-U, and trace from to W to U.
V AND VI
Repeat process tor tracing back of sleeve as shown by dotted lines; then convert the extra length at elbow (about 1-1/4")by making a V-shaped dart about 3" long for size 16 (with 1/8" grade for each size).
To complete sleeve pattern, allow seams.
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ONE PIECE SHAPED SLEEVE WITH 3 ELBOW DARTS
The feature of this sleeve is that it is slightly more shaped than the sleeve with the single elbow dart.
For the 3 elbow darts, add 1" to back edge of sleeve by slashing along the elbow line, from back to front, and spreading 1" at elbow.
Plan the 3 darts by first drafting the center dart, 3/4" × 2-1/2". Then draft the other 2 darts, one above, and the other below the center dart, as shown by dotted lines.
