Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/42

MILITARY ROLLCOLLAR SYSTEM.

Draw line 1 G, mark from 1 to O 1 inch, O to E depth of scye plus ½ inch; O to F is depth of scye as taken on figure. O to G is natural waist; continue below natural waist 3 inches, come in from G to H 1 inch, and draw line from O for centre of back from O to H; this must be kept quite straight, as the back is cut on the crease. Draw lines at right angles to 1, E, F, and G, to A ¹⁄₆ of neck plus ¼ inch. Measure of width of back D, plus ¹⁄₄ inch. and square up from D to B ¹⁄₂ breast plus 1 inch, and mark out from B

to C ¾ to 1 inch. By these points shape back scye from B to C, the shoulder seam from C to A. and the back neck form, A to O.

Draw line from D to G and hollow side at I from ¾ to 1 inch; mark the width of back from H to Q 1½ inches; From Q to bottom of side seam is 2 inches. Suppress the waist between Q and R 1½ inches, and shape the side seam of side body as (shown. Make point D a pivot and sweep from bottom of back to find bottom of side body, Now make point T a pivot and sweep from ½inch above D to find the top of side seam.

From ½ to J is ½ breast.

Square down a line from J take out 1½ inches suppression from S to T: the larger amount is best taken from the side body, as it makes a somewhat smarter garment. The sidebody is sprung out slightly below S and is terminated about 1½ inches below the waist seam from ½ to L is ½ chest measure, plus 2 inches; L to K is across chest measure. Make point K a pivot and sweep to find point N, using the front shoulder measure, less width of back neck, from O to A; now add 1 inch to this quantity and sweep from L. where the two segments intersect each other. locates the neck point. From N, mark out to O