Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/43

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40
THE CUTTER'S PRACTICAL GUIDE

16 of neck; measure up the waist from H to Q, R '10 S, and T to U, to the ½ waist measure, plus 1 inch.

Draw line from O through 1. to U; drop the from 4 inches below the waist line; mark in from T 1½ inches, and down 1½ inches, and draw straight line from this point across, and curve ½ inch. Shape the gorge, as illustrated, and tit neck with a roll collar: to find the slope of shoulder at M, deduct the distance from ½ to O S, from the over-shoulder measure, and by the remainder sweep from K to M. Shape the scye, as illustrated, and complete, as per diagram.

STAND COLLAR MESS JACKET.

This would be cut on precisely the same lines as those described, with the exception of the neck, and the front would be terminated at the breast line. The way to find the top of front at the neck would be to measure down from O ½ neck, plus ½ inch, in the smite way as described for Tunic.

MESS VEST.

The general pattern of the Mess Waistcoast is wry similar to that of an ordinary Dress Vest, a horseshoe opening in front, finished without collar, and fastened with four buttons ½inch size. (See full-length figure on page 34. For colour of vest see detailed list on page 35.)

THE SYSTEM.

Draw line 1 G, and mark down to O I inch. O to F depth of scye, O to G, natural waist come in from G to H 1 inch and draw line from O to H. H to Q is ½ inch, and by these points draw centre of back, as illustrated. from O past ½ to Q.

Make point I a pivot and sweep from O to C; make A to C A breast, plus ½ inch. and so find shoulder slope.

Measure from I to J, ½ chest, plus 1 inch, and shape back scye. From Q to S is ½ waist, plus 1 inch.

Draw line down from J. as illustrated. Mark froward to T 1 inch.

Make from J to l. ½ chest, plus ½ inch, L to K across chest measure, minus ½ inch. To find point N sweep from K by the front shoulder measure, less ¼ inch, less width of back neck from O to A now add ¾ inch to this quantity, using pivot L as a pivot and sweeping again in