Page:The National geographic magazine, volume 1.djvu/242

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186
National Geographic Magazine.

these plains are not penetrated by rivers, they are a white sea-sand, about twenty feet deep and perfectly barren, as no mixture of soil helps to enrich them. But the borders of the rivers, which descend from the uplands, are rendered fertile by the soil washt down with the floods and mixt with the sands gathered from the sea. The substratum of sea-mud, shells and other foreign subjects is a perfect confirmation of this supposition. And hence it is that for 40 or 50 miles inland and all the way from the Navesinks to Cape Florida, all is a perfect barren where the wash from the uplands has not enriched the borders of the rivers; or some ponds and defiles have not furnished proper support for the growth of white cedars. . . . . .

"From this rief of rocks, over which all the rivers fall, to that chain of broken hills, called the South mountain, there is the distance of 50, 60 or 70 miles of very uneven ground, rising sensibly as you advance further inland, and may be denominated the Upland. This consists of veins of different kinds of soil and substrata some scores of miles in length; and in some places overlaid with little ridges and chains of hills. The declivity of the whole gives great rapidity to the streams; and our violent gusts of rain have washt it all into gullies, and carried down the soil to enrich the borders of the rivers in the Lower Plains. These inequalities render half the country not easily capable of culture, and impoverishes it, where torn up by the plow, by daily washing away the richer mould that covers the surface.

"The South mountain is not in ridges like the Endless mountains, but in small, broken, steep, stoney hills; nor does it run with so much regularity. In some places it gradually degenerates to nothing, not to appear again for some miles, and in others it spreads several miles in breadth. Between South mountain and the hither chain of the Endless mountains (often for distinction called the North mountain, and in some places the Kittatinni and Pequélin), there is a valley of pretty even good land, some 8, 10 or 20 miles wide, and is the most considerable quantity of valuable land that the English are possest of; and runs through New Jersey, Pensilvania, Mariland and Virginia. It has yet obtained no general name, but may properly enough be called Piemont, from its situation. Besides conveniences always attending good land, this valley is everywhere enriched with Limestone.

"The Endless mountains, so called from a translation of the Indian name bearing that signification, come next in order. They are not confusedly scattered and in lofty peaks overtopping one another, but stretch in long uniform ridges scarce half a mile perpendicular in any place above the intermediate vallies. Their name is expressive of their extent, though no doubt not in a literal sense. . . . . . The mountains are almost all so many ridges with even tops and nearly of a height. To look from these hills into the lower lands is but, as it were, into an ocean of woods, swelled and deprest here and there by little inequalities, not to be distinguished one part from another any more than the