Page:The National geographic magazine, volume 1.djvu/243

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The Rivers and Valleys of Pennsylvania.
187

waves of the real ocean. The uniformity of these mountains, though debarring us of an advantage in this respect, makes some amends in another. They are very regular in their courses, and confine the creeks and rivers that run between; and if we know where the gaps are that let through these streams, we are not at a loss to lay down their most considerable inflections. . . . . .

"To the northwestward of the Endless mountains is a country of vast extent, and in a manner as high as the mountains themselves. To look at the abrupt termination of it, near the sea level, as is the case on the west side of Hudson's river below Albany, it looks as a vast high mountain; for the Kaats Kills, though of more lofty stature than any other mountains in these parts of America, are but the continuation of the Plains on the top, and the cliffs of them in the front they present towards Kinderhook. These Upper Plains are of extraordinary rich level land, and extend from the Mohocks river through the country of the Confederates.[1] Their termination northward is at a little distance from Lake Ontario; but what it is westward is not known, for those most extensive plains of Ohio are part of them."

These several districts recognized by Evans may be summarized as the coastal plain, of nearly horizontal Cretaceous and later beds, just entering the southeastern corner of Pennsylvania; the marginal upland of contorted schists of disputed age; the South Mountain belt of ancient and much disturbed crystalline rocks, commonly called Archean; a space between these two traversed by the sandstone lowland of the Newark formation;[2] the great Appalachian valley of crowded Cambrian limestones and slates; the region of the even-crested, linear Paleozoic ridges, bounded by Kittatinny or Blue mountain on the southeast and by Alleghany mountain on the northwest, this being the area with which we are here most concerned; and finally the Alleghany plateau, consisting of nearly horizontal Devonian and Carboniferous beds and embracing all the western part of the state. The whole region presents the most emphatic expression not only of its structure but also of the more recent cycles of development through which it has passed. Fig. 1 represents the stronger ridges and larger streams of the greater part of the central district it is reproduced from the expressive Topographic Map of Pennsylvania (1871) by Lesley. The Susquehanna flows down the middle, receiving the West Branch from Lock Haven

  1. Referring to the league of Indian tribes, so-called.
  2. Russell has lately recommended the revival of this term, proposed many years ago by Redfield, as a non-committal name for the "New red sandstones" of our Atlantic slope, commonly called Triassic.