Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/104

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95
THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER

THE STUDY OF THE STOUT FORM.

In measuring the stout form we will find a great change in formality. The changes are shown in many respects as there are regular stout, short stout, and extra stout. The regular stout form is built in regular depth and natural waist length. The width of hack is proportional for its size. The bust measurement is increased for its proportional use. The waist is increased or overbuilt for the size of chest and bust mesurements as a rule for the stout forms.

The short stout form is changed by all means. The depth is always by the size of the garment. The natural waist length is short according to the regular length. The sleeves are also very short. The bust as a rule shows full on short builds but it is not overbuilt.

The waist is the only overbuilt part. The increase is about 3 or 3 inches. Like the regular stout form.

The side body is a great deal shorter than it is for regular builds as the depth is regular in length and the waist length is very short. The neck for this form is also very short.

The extra stout form is changed in measurements regarding the height. The depth and waist length is very long. The neck is a very high one for this form. The sleeve lengths for this form are according to the height of forms. The regular length for sleeve is 18 inches, the short sleeve length is 16 to 17 inches. The extra stout sleeve length is 19 to 20 inches.

The neck for stout forms is short and large in size.

The chest for stout forms is very flat.

The bust for stout forms is medium.

The waist for stout forms is unlimitedly large.

The hip for stout forms is long effected and flat.


Skirts for stout forms shall be cut very low raise in back, and raised up in front of the same.

The hips for stout forms are small,therefore, the bottom of the skirt might be too narrow, in case of having a narrow bottom for skirts it should be increased to the regular width which is 3 yards. This increase should be done at the hip or side seam, equally divided for both.

Should this skirt be cut in more than 2 gores the overbuilt fullness shall be equally divided to all gores or to all seams.

Regarding measurements for stouts see the table of stout proportions.