Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/13

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THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER
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THE GRAMMAR OF DESIGNING AND GARMENT CUTTING.

The grammar of garment cutting is adapted by the first 10 numbers which are producing the height and width proportions of the woman's body. These numbers are called grammar numbers, and they are as follows: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.

These numbers shall be divided into two classes: They are called odd and even. These numbers are originators of the height and width proportions.

In order to begin to produce the regular proportions for the female form, we write out the 10 numbers as follows: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and connect the odd and even numbers as shown. Now connect the odd numbers, 1 to 3 and 5 to 7. Now add these numbers, as from 1 and 3 are 4; 5 and 7 are 12. Now connect the even numbers, 2 and 4 are 6; 6 and 8 are 14. Now add all ready numbers, which are 4, 12, 6 and 14, which amount to 36 inches which is the size of garment and the beginning number of the width proportions.

In order to get the other width proportions, add the beginning number of 36, which is the number 3, to the total amount of 36 which will make it 39 inches for the standard bust measurement. In order to get the waist measurement, take 1/3 of 36 and 1 inch less which is 11; now take these 11 inches from 36 which leaves 25 inches for the waist measurement.

In order to get the hip measurement, take 1/2 of 36 and add to the waist measurement which is 25 inches and this will make 43 inches for the standard hip measurement which is 43 inches for the standard hip measurement. In order to get the height proportions the grammar numbers are again used as beginning 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, connect the beginning and ending number between 1 and 10 as follows:

1 and 10 are 11.
2 and 9 are 11.
3 and 8 are 11.
4 and 7 are 11.
5 and 6 are 11.