LESSON 82.
PANTATALOONS.—FRONT PART
The pantaloons are begun the same way as the other pants. The measurements for this garment are as follows: outside length, 42 inches; raise, 10 inches; waist, 24 inches; hip, 42 inches; bottom, 46 inches.
To draft, draw lines from A to K and from . to D; from A to D is the outside length, 42 inches; from A to B is 10 inches for raise. Divide between B and D, making Y; 2 inches up from Y makes C which gives the knee line. Cross all lines. Begin to work the hip measurement from B to H, which is 42 inches hip measurement on halves; from H to I is 42 inches hip measurement on the eighths; cross a line up from H to K; measure the space between H and I and place the same from H to J and cross a line as shown from J to X. Now measure from K to O 24 inches waist measurement on halves; from O to P is 2 inches; from P to Q is 1/2 inch down; cross a line from R, Q lost to X; divide from I to B making S. Measure the space between B and S and place the same from D to W. Now cross a line up from W up to the top line to meet L; measure the bottom on both sides of W; this space should measure 16 inches; from W to 3 is 4 inches, so the width from 3 to 4 amounts to 8 inches; cross a line from 4 to B to connect with the curve at X; from? to B is 3/4 of an inch; now cross a line from G to 3; curve from 1 lost to the knee line up to I. This completes the inside part of this front. Cross a line from I to J, which makes M; from M to H cross a line; from M to N is 1/2 of an inch; curve from R, J, N to I; now hollow out the bottom of the front pants at W from 4 to 3. To cut out this front part of the pants begin at Q, X, B, 2 and 4 to 3. and from Q to L, R, J, N, I, 1, 3 and 6. This completes the front part of the pantaloons.
LESSON 83.
PANTALOONS—BACK PART.
To begin this part of the garment we always cut out the front part first and place it on another sheet of paper. Cross all outlines from the waist, hip, knee and bottom, also the centre line from K down to W. Measure from L to K, which is 4 inches; measure the waist for the back part from L to A, which is 24 inches on halves; from A to P allow 3 inches for seams; from P to K cross a line and divide, which makes O; take out both sides of O, 1 inch on either side, which makes V and W; from O to T is 4 inches deep; shape from V and W lost to T; from B to U allow 2 inches for seams; from 2 to 3 allow 1 inch for seams; from 4 to 3 allow 1 inch for seams. Measure the inside part for the under pants; from O to H is one-sixteenth of hip measurement, and from H to M is 1 inch; cross a line from K to J. which is the strong part of the crutch, and curve as shown on the diagram from K, J, I to M; from 1 to Y is 1 inch for seams allowed; same from 3 to F; now curve as shown the small amount from P to U all the way down to E; shape
