LESSON 109.
HOW TO GRADE A BOX COAT FROM SIZE 36 TO SIZE 38.
Before commencing to grade, cut out front and back separately. As a rule we use size 36 for a model pattern for women's sizes. After having the front and back pattern cut out. place the back on a separate sheet of paper and mark all around as follows: From A. B, C, G, F and E to D. It is proper to have the breast line on each part of the pattern, as on the back the breast line is from B crossed to F. Extend a line from B, which is the back depth point from B to D, which increases the neck part, and again from B to E, which increases the width of the shoulder. Increase or grade from 36 to 38; from A to N and from D to M is 1/8 inch, also from E to L is 1/8 inch in height and width; from F to K and from G to J is 3/8 inch. The length for this coat is shown from C to H and from J to I. and is graded according to the length. This length can be increased from 1/2 inch to 1 inch. For women's garments we should grade a very small amount in length for women's sizes. For copying the next size, which is size 38. according to the increase which has been made, use the original model pattern. This completes the back part.
Place the front part on a separate sheet of paper, mark all around and increase from Y to Z and O to X. which is 1/8 inch. Increase the shoulder in height from E to B at the front neck point to A 1/8 inch. Regarding the proper increasing of the neck, I have prepared an outline which will give the proper action for this part of the garment. In order to begin, straighten front part under the arm-hole as shown at W. This line from W to U is 1 1/2 inches up. Draw a line up against A. which will show the proper increases for the height and width and for the height of neck. In order to increase the ending part for the neck, mark off the amount for button stand, which is from I to X. Take half from W to X, which makes V, and extend lines from V to beginning of the neck notch or beginning of lapel to F, and also to the finishing of the lapel which is from V to H. Increase from F to C, which is 1/8 inch, and from H to D is 1/4 inch. Increase the front part from I to J all the way down to N. which is 1/2 inch. Now increase the length in front at bottom, the same as you increased the back length. The place for pocket should also be increased in height. The original pocket for 36 size, which is shown on the diagram, is at R and O; for size 38 increase 1/2 inch for lower pocket, which is from O to T and from R to S. For smaller sizes decrease to the same amount in height for the size of pocket. This completes the box coat grading.
