LESSON 117.
HOW TO GRADE THE SAILOR COLLAR, No. 1.
To begin, cut out the regular sailor collar. Allow 1/8 inch at the center back for increasing the neck part from A to C and from B to D; from I to H and from M to J allow the length at the front part, 1/4 inch, and lost with the curve from J up towards F and F to X. This completes the grading of the sailor collar.
LESSON 118.
HOW TO GRADE A STANDING COLLAR, No. 2.
The standing collar should not be increased in height unless for a special width wanted. The increasing or decreasing should be made at the two ends, which is from K to A, H to B and from J to C; from I to D 1/4 inch on both sides, which should amount to 1/2 inch, as from size to size wanted. This completes the standing collar grading.
LESSON 119.
GRADING FLAT COLLAR, No. 3.
This collar is also graded at both ends. As this collar is round shape, we should draw a straight line at the two curved points, which is at A and G. The grading for this collar should be made in such a way that when the neck is increased, or is made for larger sizes, the opening for the inside part of the collar should be larger, and we therefore increase or grade from A to C; from G to E is 1/8 inch, and curved at the broken lines as shown in the diagram from C, K and from E to K paralled spaces of 1/8 inch should be increased at the back from C to D
The same parallel space of 1/8 inch should be made from H to F and lost from F to X. In the same way you can also decrease this collar for the smaller size. This completes the grading of the flat collar. The grading for any other collars should be followed by the same method. The lapel or short collar should also be graded 1/8 inch on both ends, or if grading at the front part of the collar is inconvenient, then grade 1/4 inch at the back seam of the collar. Collars which are cut out in many pieces should be graded, each one separately, in order to increase all parts alike.
