LESSON 139.
No. 3.—SPECIAL MEASUREMENT.
This diagram completes Lesson No. 2. From H to 23 is one-sixth of size of chest measurement and 1 to 15 is 1 inch less than H to 33; from 15 to 16 is 1 inch; from 23 to 24 is 3/4 inch. Now cross a line from 16 to 24 and 16 to 9, also from 15 to 9 and to 23 down to 45; then divide from 10 to 12 making 11 Cross a line out to 14 and make a little curve from 13 to 14 for the back part; from K to 4 and from L to 30 is 3/4 inch; cross a line from 4 to 30 to make 17 on the waist line and divide between 17 and 16 to make 8; also divide between 4 and 9 to make 7; from T to 47 is 1 inch up; now cross a line from 47 down to 7, 8 and 20, and take out both sides from 8; 3/4 inch to 18 and 19. Allow both sides of 20 on the hip line 3/4 inch at 21 and 22; cross lines from 18 to 22 and 19 to 21 and from 18 to 19 up to 7; then allow from L to 26, 1 inch; and from 30 to 25 also 1 inch; cross from 17 to 25 and from 2 to 26; from 17 to 2 is always 1 inch; at 4 towards the front is always 1/4 inch. Now we measure the waist line in front for the front waist length measurement, which is 23 inches, and first take off one-sixth of this size allowing 1 inch less for seams, and apply the balance from Q to 3, which makes the long waist line in front. Supposing we have these 23 inches for front waist length we look up first the size of chest of this garment and take one-sixth off for the back neck and measure from the centre of the back when we take these measurements. If this one-sixth of the size amounts to 3 1/8 inches, we take off 1 inch for seams which leaves a balance of 2 1/8 inches. Taking 2 1/8 inches from 23 inches leaves a balance of 20 7/8 inches. Measure this 20 7/8 inches from Q to 3 and cross a line from 2 against 3 out to 5; from Z to 1 is always 1 1/2 inches. Cross a line from TT to X down against 1 to 5, 6 and 39, and divide the chest part between M and X, making 28; take this space between X and 28 and place the same from 1 to 27; then cross a line from 28 against 27 down to 36; 31 is the long waist line; from 31 to 32 is 1 inch; from 31 to 33 is 3 inches. Divide between 28 to 31 which makes 29 and connect lines on both sides of 31 from 29 to 32 and 33 down to 34; from 36 to 35 is 1 inch; cross lines from 32 to 35 down to 37, and place a square to the line from 32 to 34, and square a line down to 38. Now curve all parts at the waist and hip, as usual, and lengthen all gores lost from the hip and follow carefully the hip curves by lengthening. Be careful to have all lengths from hip to the bottom line in order. To begin we measure the straight line from I to 46 at the back and place the same length from 15 to 45, from 16 to 44, from 19 to 42, from 18 to 43, from 17 to 40, from 2 to 41, from 34 to 38, 32 to 35 and 5 to 39. This part of the garment should be curved the same as any other tight-fitting garment. After having this diagram complete, test the armhole for the special sleeve measurement draft. When beginning test, place a square line to the back line from 10 to 50 and cross a line towards the front with a full one-half seam; lower at the back shoulder point at 13 and cross with a line to the front arm-hole which makes 51. Measure the space from 50 to 10 on thirds, which shows 36 on thirds, or 6 inches. This shows the top of sleeve or depth of the armhole. Now measure for the width with a cross line from 13 to 51, also on thirds, which gives 38 width measurement for the sleeve on thirds, or 6 1/2 inches. When beginning to draft the sleeve for this armhole keep in mind the two measurements, and also remember which of these two measurements is the depth of armhole and the width of armhole. The natural sleeve notch is shown pointing out at M, and no other notch is necessary. This completes the special measurement draft.
When cutting any other style half-fitting or box coat, the same measurements and rules should be applied. This garment is also cut with seams same as all others.
