Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/286

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277
THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER

LESSON 152.

JUNIOR BLOUSE.— SIZE 15.

The measurements for this are as follows:

Breast 33 inches.
Bust 35 inches.
Waist 24½ inches.
Hip 39 inches
Back depth 6⅜ inches
Natural waist length 14¼ inches.
Inside sieve length 16¾ inches.

To begin to draft draw a line from A to W and A to D; from A to B is 6 5/8 inches back depth, and from A to C is 14 1/3 inches natural waist length. Now draw lines across from A, B and C; from B to G and from C to E is two-thirds of size, or 11 inches for this size. Cross a line from E and G to U, and divide B to G, which makes H; from H to I is 1 1/4 inches, as usual. Draw a line up from I to make J; from A to K is one-sixth of size, or 2 3/4 inches; from K to L is 1 inch. Now connect from L and J to M a square line down, as usual. This completes the width of back of shoulder. From C to S is one-twelfth of size, and 1/2 inch more allowed amounts to 1 7/8 inches. Draw a line from S to A; from G to F is one-sixth of size, and from Q to P and from P to O is also one-sixth of size; from P to W is one-sixth of size with seam allowed, or W to Z is 1/2 inch for the neck raised up. Connect the front shoulder from O to T and take the back shoulder measurements from L to M, measuring the same amount from O to U. For the front shoulder connect a line from U to F for the front of armhole. Measure from T to V for half of bust measurement, which is 17 1/2 inches. From V to X allow 3 inches for seams. Now extend a line from Z against X to R; from X square a line down to Y, and divide the space between I and G at the center of armhole, making 2; from 2 to 3 is 1 inch, N is half of N. Square a straight line down from N to 1 and 8; at both sides of 1 to 4 and 5 take out 1 1/2 inches, and connect a line from 2 to 5 and 3 to 4; Y is one-sixth of size, or 2 3/4 inches below the waist line in the front. Now connect a line from 4 to Y out to R; from R to 6 is 1 inch curved up. This completes the blouse.

If a hip allowance is wanted for this blouse, as shown with the broken lines on the diagram, allow lines below the waist line from D to 7, which is one-twelfth of size, or 1 3/8 inches, and connect from 7 to S on both sides of 8, 9 and 10, which is 1 inch; also connect 9 to 5 and 10 to 4, the front line from 6 and R straightened down to 11. This space between S, 7, 5 and 9 and 4 to 10 and 6 to 11 is one-third of size, or 5 1/2 inches. Complete the same as shown on the diagram.