Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/294

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285
THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER

LESSON 157.

HOW TO GRADE A CHILD'S BOX COAT.

The beginning of this grading is the same as for Junior's size. We first cut out front and back pattern. To grade from size 6 to size S begin to grade the back part and increase the difference of depth between A and X, D, M and E to L. The line from B to D will increase the neck part. For larger sizes from X to M: from E to L towards the armhole is 1/8 inch, and from F to K and from G to J is 1/8 inch. now increase the length for children's sizes by 2 inches, which is from C to H and from J to I, and begin the front part of grading from Y to Z and from O to X which is 1/8 inch; from B to E is the front shoulder. From A increase to same amount as you have increased for the back shoulder, which increases about 1/4 inch. The same space should be increased at the front of neck from F to C and H to D. Now increase from I to J all the way down to X to the bottom 1/4 inch. From H to D use only half as much as in the breast from I to J. The length of this front should be increased to same amount as the back part. The pocket for children's sizes is also graded larger and deeper, according to the size. The regular pocket is Q to R; the pocket for larger sizes, which is from 6 to 8, should be a half lower, and is shown from T to S. This completes this grading.