Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/54

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45
THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER

ETON WITH DART IN FRONT.

LESSON 15.

This draft is made the same way as the first Eton, the front of this Eton is changed so as to the dart. From V to X allow 3/4 of an inch, from V to Y is the same as) the first draft 2 1/2 inches, draw a line from R to X down to 14, now in order to get the dart in front, we divide the chest F to E makes S, now measure the space from E to S and take same from 14 to 2, divide from Z to S makes 1, make the dart, from Z to 2 is 1 inch, from Z to 3 is 2 inches. Now draw lines 1 to 3, now measure from 1 to 2 and make the same from 1 to 15, now curve from 1 to 3 and ] to 15, also from 10 to 15 and from 2 to Y up to 14 as show diagram. Take special notice for the way of curving this dart, this is rounded out instead of shaping to the part of gore from 1 to 15 and from 1 to 2.

Now curve carefully the front from W to E X and 14, from 2 to 14 curve up as shown on diagram, this front has no button stand.

This completes the Eton Coat with a dart in front.

ETON WITH A FRENCH SEAM.

LESSON 16.

The french seam eton is by all means drafted with the same out-line as the first and second eton, this draft only changes with the french seams on front and back. To begin the french seams divide the back shoulder from L to M makes 10, now divide at the bottom from D to 4 makes 9, now draw a line somewhat round, this is the place for the french seams. Now begin the front, divide from O to U makes 11, now connect a line from 11 to the dart connection at 1. When cutting this pattern, allow seams on both parts from 11 to 1, 2, 3, both partls otherwise all seams are allowed.

This completes the eton with the french seams.