Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/80

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71
THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER

OPERA CLOAK

LESSON 31.

This garment is drafted on the same measurements as all garments, in drafting this garment changes to a great extent, this garment is only used for evening wear.

To begin draw all lines as usual, from A to B is 7 inches depth, from A to C is 15 1/2 inches natural waist length, from C to D is 6 inches hip length and from A to E is 50 inches full length, now cross all lines from B to G and from D to J is 2/3rds of size or 12 inches for a 36 size. Now take the width of back as usual, H is half of B and G, from H to I is 1 1/4 inches, now draw a line up to M and extend the shoulder as usual to N, from G to * is 1/6 of size or 3 inches for a 36 size. Now measure the space from I to * and make the same from * to O, cross a line up from O to Q, from Q to P is 1/6 of size or 3 inches, from P to R is 1/6 of size or 3 inches, from P to 3 is also 1/6 of size or 3 inches, from 3 to 4 is 3/4 of an inch.

For this garment the bust is not measured the same way as for other garments, from O to T measure 1/4 of the size or 9 inches for a 36 size. Now cross a line down from T to U, from U to V is 1/2 of an inch, now cross a line in from 4 to T, Y down to Z and W, W is 2 inches below Z, from 4 to 6 and from W to 8 is 4 inches button stand for a double breasted front, this front can be made any style front wanted. Now make the front shoulder, from R to F is 6 inches shoulder to the line, draw a lone from F to O, now make the circel for the globe a m-hole by * from O to 10 and I. The space is gathered into the arm-hole, from to F, N and I, when the shoulder is complete. The back of this cape can be made either way, without a seam or with a seam in the back, if no seam in back is wanted use the straight line from A to E, this cape shall be cut shapy as it is called the whopple style. To draft the Whipple back, draw out a line from the depth point 2 out to the waist point C, this increases from E to 3, now curve at 2 as shown on the diagram, now curve from 3 to 8, this completes the Opera cape.