Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/98

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89
THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER

VEST SINGLE BREASTED WITHOUT COLLAR.

LESSON 40.

This garment is drafted of the same measurements as the other, as follows:—

Size, 36 inches,
Bust, 39 inches,
Waist, 25 inches,
Depth, 7 inches,
Waist length, 15 1/2 inches,
Opening, 15 inches,
Full length in front 26 inches,

Begin drafting, the same way as usual, from A to B is 7 inches depth, A to C is natural waist length from C to D is 3 inches hip space. Now draw lines as usual, from B to G and C to E is 2/3rds of size or 12 inches, now take the width back as usual, and make the back shoulder as usual to M, now divide from 1 to G makes 7, draw a line down to 13, take both sides of 7. 3/4 of an inch at 9 and 10 on the waist line, both sides of 8, take out 1 1/2 inches at 11 and 12, now make the front, from G to F is 1/6 of size or 3 inches, draw a line from F to Q to P is 1/6th or 3 inches, from P to is also 1/6 or 3 inches, now draw a straight line up from P to R, from O to R is 1/6 or 3 inches, now cross a line from the front shouhlder from O to T, make the front shoulder as usual, now measure the bust from T to U, from U to V is 3 inches for seams, now cross a line down from V to 3, X is the waist line from X to Y is 3/4 of an inch, now draw a line from V to Y, Z, in order to measure the opening and full length, measure from A to L and place the same to R and O, down to V, from E to V is 15 inches opening and from R to 2 is the full length in front 26 inches and 1 more inch is 27 inches, now cross a line from 2 to 14, 14 is 1 inch from 13, the same as 15 from 13, now take the dart as usual, divide the chest and draw a line from 3 to 25, from 4 to 5 is 1 inch, from 4 to 6 is 2 inches, now curve the dart from 19 1 inch up down to 5 and 20 and 19 to 6 and 21, cross a parallel line from 20 to 21 now shape 21 to 14, now shape the shoulder and arm-holes as shown, the shoulders shall be 1/2 inch less in width, now shape the side and the back as shown on the diagram, mark the space between E and 16, 1-1/4 inches on the waist line. This completes the vest without a collar.