Picturesque New Zealand
COPYRIGHT, 1913, BY PAUL GOODING
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Published October 1913
TO MY FATHER
The main purpose of this book is to offer the public, and especially American readers, an intimate picture of New Zealand and its people, by one who has thrice visited its captivating shores. It is not intended as a guide-book, and mention of many places of interest more local than general is omitted in preference to the most important attractions. Nothing has been sacrificed, however, that would embarrass the author in his effort to describe the natural wonders and beauties of a country unique in geographical location, structural formation, history, and present-day conditions.
Concerning this country's sociological and industrial conditions, in themselves so large a subject, only a brief reference is made, for these matters deserve to be treated in a separate volume. The purpose of the chapters following is to afford a panoramic view, if that expression may be used, of the group of islands that constitute New Zealand, and that form far-flung outposts of the British Empire.
I take pleasure in acknowledging my indebtedness to the following sources of information:—
- New Zealand Official Year Book.
- School History of New Zealand, Frederick J. Moss.
- Hawaiki, S. Percy Smith.
- The Maori Race, E. Tregear.
- The Maoris of New Zealand, James Cowan.
- History and Traditions of the Maoris, Thomas Wayth Gudgeon.
- Maori Customs and Superstitions, John White.
- Suggestions for a History of the Origin and Migrations of the Maori People, Judge Francis Dart Fenton.
- New Zealand, James Cowan.
- Geological writings of S. Percy Smith Professor James Park, and Professor A. P. W. Thomas.
- Plants of New Zealand, Laing and Blackwell.
- Manual of the New Zealand Flora, T. F. Cheeseman.
- Forest Flora of New Zealand, T. Kirk.
- Nature Notes, Professor J. Drummond.
- New Zealand Lakes and Fiords, New Zealand Government.
- Royal Commission's Report on Kauri Gum.
- The Labor Laws of New Zealand, New Zealand Government.
- Awards, Recommendations, Agreements, etc. (under Industrial Conciliation and Arbitration Act), New Zealand Government.
I am also grateful to many state officials for their readiness in supplying me with information.
A Continent in Miniature—A Near-Utopia and Corrected Misconceptions concerning it—A Busy Democracy—Political New Zealand
Characteristics of the New Zealander—Former Cannibals who have become Good Citizens
Travel in New Zealand—Government and Tourist—Slow Express—State Railways
Entering the Long Bright World—Ashore in Auckland—Reminders of America—Shops and Shopping
The Thermal Wonderland—Rotorua—The Haka and the Poi—A Strange Outdoor Kitchen—Whakarewarewa's Geysers—Pantomime in a Maori Cooking Reserve—Wonderful Hamurana—Gloomy Tikitere—The Long Swim of Hinemoa—The Cold Lakes
The Buried Country—Earthquakes—The World's Greatest Geyser—A Hot Lake—The Wonders of Waiotapu
Pulsating Wairakei's Geyser Valley—The Devil's Trumpet—The Geysers and Paint-Pots of Taupo—An Immense Crater Lake—Burning Mountains—Terrifying White Island
Weird Waitomo's Beautiful Caves—Glowworm Grotto
Down New Zealand's Rhine—Far-famed Wanganui—Amorous Taranaki
New Zealand's Hilly Capital—A Win for American Literature—Hunting an Art Gallery—Welcome and Unwelcome Immigrants—A Polite Conductor—Memories of the Renowned Seddon
The Sea of the Greenstone—Two Mistakes—Christchurch—Horse-Racing and Gambling—Drunkards' Islands
Dunedin—Miscellaneous Ben Rudd and Flagstaff Hill—Roomy Invercargill—State Oysters—Romantic Stewart Island
Lakes and Sounds of the Lone Southwest—The Rabbit Curse—Enchanting Manapouri and Te Anau—The Finest Walk in the World—Milford Sound—New Zealand's Lucerne
Switzerland challenged—The Southern Alps—Up a Mighty Glacier—The Perverse Ski—Mountaineering by Moonlight—Within the Shadows of Mount Cook—Boiling the Billy—Over the Alps to Westland
Two Beautiful Gorges—Pelorus Jack—The Marlborough Sounds
North Auckland—Up the Wairoa River—Historic Bay of Islands—Charming Whangaroa and its Celebrated Massacre—Kauri Gum—Life in the Back Blocks—Tarts and Kes—A Maori School and Zealous Pupils
Wonderful Forests—The Strangling Rata and the Lordly Kauri—The Flaming Pohutukawa—Cabbage Trees—The Bowing Toitoi
Unusual Zoology—The Gigantic Moa—Interesting Birds of To-day—A Land of Many Fishes—The Long Fish of Maui
A Great Maori Carnival—Interviewing a Much-Married Prophet—In a Hauhau Village—A Call on King Mahuta
|The Right Hon. Richard John Seddon, P.C., thirteen years Prime Minister||Muir & Moodie||Frontispiece|
|Mount Cook from the Hooker River||Muir & Moodie||2|
|A Tattooed Maori||Josiah Martin||8|
|The Right Hon. Sir Joseph George Ward, Bart., P.C, K.C.M.G.||Muir & Moodie||18|
|The Hot Water Basins, White Terrace||Muir & Moodie||22|
|Head of Lake Wakatipu, from Pigeon Island||Muir & Moodie||28|
|Maori Meeting House||Muir & Moodie||34|
|Maori Warrior||Josiah Martin||38|
|A Maori Village||Josiah Martin||42|
|Maori Wahine with Mat of Kiwi Feathers and Pendent Heitiki||Iles||50|
|Government House, Auckland||Muir & Moodie||56|
|Auckland from Mount Eden||Josiah Martin||62|
|Queen Street, Auckland||Muir & Moodie||66|
|Albert Park, Auckland||Muir & Moodie||70|
|Maori Carvings||Muir & Moodie||74|
|Main Bath House, Rotorua||Muir & Moodie||80|
|Poi Dance||N. Z. Govt., Tourist Dept.||84|
|The Ducal Haka, Rotorua||Muir & Moodie||88|
|The Inferno Tikitere||Josiah Martin||98|
|Pink Terrace||Muir & Moodie||104|
|Waimangu Geyser||Muir & Moodie||110|
|Champagne Caldron||Muir & Moodie||118|
|Lake Taupo from Motutere||Muir & Moodie||122|
|Ngauruhoe in Action||Muir & Moodie||126|
|Aranui Cave||N. Z. Govt., Tourist Dept.||132|
|Wanganui River||Josiah Martin||138|
|London, Wanganui River||Muir & Moodie||144|
|Mount Egmont from Hawera||Muir & Moodie||146|
|Wellington Water Front||Muir & Moodie||150|
|Town Hall, Wellington||Muir & Moodie||154|
|Christchurch Cathedral||Josiah Martin||160|
|Christchurch from Cathedral||Muir & Moodie||164|
|Dunedin||Muir & Moodie||168|
|The Boys' High School, Dunedin||Muir & Moodie||170|
|Invercargill||Muir & Moodie||174|
|Lake Manapouri and Cathedral Peaks||Muir & Moodie||178|
|Safe or Happy Cove, Head of Lake Te Anau||Muir & Moodie||182|
|Milford Track Bush Scene||Muir & Moodie||186|
|Clinton Canyon from McKinnon's Pass||Muir & Moodie||192|
|Mitre Peak, Milford Sound||Muir & Moodie||200|
|The Lion, Milford Sound||Muir & Moodie||202|
|Queenstown and the Remarkables||Muir & Moodie||206|
|Section of the Alps and Tasman Glacier||Muir & Moodie||216|
|Cutting steps on Ice Face, Tasman Glacier||Muir & Moodie||224|
|Mount Sefton and the Footstool||Muir & Moodie||232|
|Otira Gorge, West Coast Road||Muir & Moodie||236|
|Buller Gorge, Hawk's Crag||Muir & Moodie||240|
|Wainia Falls||N. Z. Govt., Tourist Dept||250|
|Gum Diggers at Work in Kauri Forest||Josiah Martin||256|
|A Giant Kauri||Josiah Martin||268|
|Kiwi and Egg||Josiah Martin||274|
|A Tattooed Maori with Huia Feathers in Hair||Muir & Moodie||280|
|A Hongi||Josiah Martin||282|
|Women's Canoe Hurdle||Josiah Martin||286|
|At the Finish Line||Josiah Martin||288|
|Rua and Four of his Wives||J. Macquarters||294|
|Te Kooti's House||Josiah Martin||310|
|Map of New Zealand||Inside of covers|