Prague/Chapter 4

by anonymous

A WALK THROUGH THE OLD PRAGUE.

To the visitors patronising the following hotels: Black Horse (Černý kůň), Paris, de Saxe, Central it is recommended to choose the POWDER TOWER (Prašná Brána) as the starting point.

South of the Tower (once a gate to the City and part of the King’s Old Town’s Residence, later a powder magazine) opens the
Oriel of St. Wenceslas Chapel of the Old Town Hall.

“Regent“ Street of Prague: the “Příkop“ (formerly the old moat of the City) with many banks and shops nicluding depot of the famous Bohemian glass of Count Harrach’s glassworks at Nový Svět, and a depot of picturesque peasant costumes, embroidery, dolls, charming wooden things of the “Zádruha” (Association for encouraging home industries).

Passing through the Powder Tower we enter the Old Town by the Celetná ulice, leading to the Old Town Square and the ancient Town Hall.

THE TOWN HALL of the Old Town is a public building of abiding historic interest Its oldest part dates from 1338, (the picturesque projecting chapel and the tower). At the entrance we look at the ancient wonderful astronomical clock, constructed in 1490, and join the crowd watching the figures of our Lord and His apostles emerge and pass review as the clock strikes even hours. Entering the building we proceed to the first floor where, in the largest of the in council rooms are located the historical paintings of: John Hus before his Constance judges (1415) and the Election of George of Poděbrad as King of Bohemia in 1458 by Václav Brožík, the celebrated Bohemian painter, one of whose pictures: the Columbus before Queen Elizabeth of Spain is the property of Museum of Art of New York City.

The Hall of Mayors contains portraits of the chief magistrates of the City since 1611. The chapel is considered a gem of Bohemian Gothic architecture. From the ballustraded roof of the portico of the Tovn Halla splendid view of the Old Town Square can be obtained.

On this Square the execution of 27 Bohemian nobles took place following the battle of White Mountain (1621), which had sealed the fate of the country. Twelve years latter eleven officers of high rank were executed there by order of Waldstein for cowardice at the battle of Lützen.

A memorial of John Hus will be unveiled on this Square in 1915 in commemoration of the 500th anniversary of his death at the stake in Constance.

Opposite the Town Hall is a fine baroque building the Kinský palace and the TÝN CHURCH, for two centuries principle Hussite temple and the stronghold of the Hussite movement during its whole duration. The famous astronomer Dane Tycho Brahe, who died at Prague in 1601, is buried there.

Close to the Týn Church to the East is the "Ungelt" with a picturesque courtyard, once center of commerce of Central Europe.

The most interesting building of the formerly Jewish Quarter is the Old New School, a synagogue built about A. D. 1212. It is still used for worship on the Jewish Sunday (Saturday), but during the remainder of the week it is open for the tourists.

Only a few steps distant is the oldest existing Jewish Cemetery in Europe. There are thousands of lichen covered stones, bearing Hebrew inscriptions and symbols, to indicate the tribe to which the deceased belonged.

Another interesting building of the Old Town is the Clementinum (formerly Jesuits College), which contains the archiepiscopal seminary, the University Library (open daily from 9 to 1, and from 3 to 6), the Astronomical Observarory and part of the University (Philosophical Faculty); close to it are: the St. Clement’s and St. Salvator’s church and the Italian Chapel.

In the library the oldest manuscripts of Wycliffe and of Luther can be seen by permission of the custodian.

Opposite the Clementinum is the Church and Monastery of the Order of “Crucigerous Knights with the red Star“.

From the Charles IV. Monument at the foot of the Old Town Bridge Tower, a gorgeous view of the left bank of Vltava can be obtained: Hradčany, the Kremlin of Prague, the most beautiful spot of the City, appears before our eyes in all its splendour.

When passing through the Bridge Tower and crossing the Charles Bridge we enter the Malá Strana with its numerous palaces of old Bohemian nobility: Prince Lobkowicz and Schwarzenberg, Counts Schoenborn, Count Thun, Maltese Knights, Counts Clam Callas, Kinský, Nosticz (famous Picture Gallery) etc. containing rare historical treasures.

The landmark of Malá Strana is St. Nicolas Church with a splendid green cupola, one of the finest baroque churches in Europe.

Of special interest is the visit to the palace of Waldstein, the imperial general in Thirty years’ war, whose career and ambitions form one of the puzzles of history.

In the Church of St. Thomas, a few steps distant, is buried an English poetess Elizabeth Joanna Weston, born in London 1582, who ranked with Sir Thomas More as the best contemporary Latin poet.

 

HRADČANY, THE KREMLIN OF PRAGUE.

The most beautiful place of Prague, a subject of wonder to the stranger and an object of national veneration to all Bohemians is a huge pile of buildings called: Hradčany.

The most prominent feature of the Hradčany is the Cathedral of St. Vitus, an imposing structure of pure gothic, originally founded by Prince St. Václav murdered by his pagan brother Boleslav in 935., and hero of the carol "Good King Wenceslas." A chapel
Týn Church with the “Ungelt“. bears the name of the pious philanthropist, on the door of which is affixed the ring supposed to be held in his death grasp. St. Wenceslas helmet and armour are deposited there; near in an adjoining treasury are the Bohemian “Crown“ jewels.

In the nave of the Cathedral repose Charles IV., the “Father of the Country“, and other Bohemian Kings.

The silver shrine of St. John Nepomuk deserves attention.

Near the principal tower of the Cathedral is an ornamental fountain with an old equestrian statue of St. George and the dragon dated 1373, which is reproduced in plaster for the Victoria and Albert Museum at South Kensington.

The cathedral shares with the Royal Palace, ancient churches, palaces and monasteries, a noble site on the summit of a hill overlooking the river Vltava.

The superb Royal Castle of Prague was the seat of the Bohemian kings of Přemysl, Luxemburg, Jagellon and Habsburg dynasties till 1620, when the Royal Court was transferred to Vienna. The castle represents still the Bohemian State idea. Emperor and King Francis Joseph makes the palace his residence durring his visits to Prague.

The most interesting part of the interior of the palace is the large Gothic hall built by King Vladislav in 1484.

From the room that originally contained the land registry, an institution not unlike the “Doomsdlay Book“ in England, the Imperial counsellors were thrown in 1618 an event known in history as the Defenstration of Prague and the immediate cause of the Thirty Years’ War.

Close by the cathedral to East is the Romanesque Church of St. George, that dates back to 1142; a few steps distant is a picturesque lane with so called Alchymists’ Houses; further on the Black Tower and the “Daliborka“ (a famous state prison and torturing chamber.).

Close by to the West of the Royal Palace is the Palace of the Archbishop of Prague, the Primate of the Bohemian Kingdom.

Near by to the West is the Monastery of St. Loretto, in the court of which is a replica of the house of St. Joseph and St. Anne of Nazareth.

In the reliquary of the Monastery is a display of jewels and ornaments of gold; the central piece a monstrance contains 6580 diamonds.

The Old Town Bridge Tower.

There are many other objects of interest in this part of the City f. i.

The Royal Garden adjoining the Royal Palace, the Belvedere of the Queen Anne, a famous masterpiece of Italian Architecture, the Strahov Monastery (a world known library and Picture gallery), with a magnificient view of the city from its gardens.

The limit of space does not permit of describing many other ancient and interesting buildings of the Old Prague. The traveller will find an exhaustive information in various official Guides of the City of Prague.^[1]

The imperious necessities of the present are constantly sweeping aside some ancient landmark or flinging down the last traces of age worn buildings, which the antiquarian world fain preserve; yet enough is still left to enable the traveller to reconstruct in imagination the glory of a mediaeval City that was Prague.

 

1. We recommend the following: Guide to the Royal City of Prague and to the Kingdom of Bohemia 1906. Published for the City Council of Prague.
   The Kingdom of Bohemia. Prague. Published for the Bohemian Union for promoting visits of foreigners to the Kingdom of Bohemia.