The Family Kitchen Gardener (1856)/Budding

by Robert Buist

Layout 2

BUDDING.

Budding.—The operation may be performed with any sharp, thin-bladed knife, though one called a “budding-knife,” with a thin ivory handle, is best for the purpose. It should be inserted about half an inch above the bud, and passing about one-fourth of the way through the wood of the shoot, come out again about the same distance below it, the cut being as clean as possible. The portion of the bark in the centre of which the bud is situated is called the shield; and when removed, it contains a portion of the wood, which is to be carefully removed with the point of the knife, as shown in Fig. 20; if the wood is dry, and does not separate readily, it is a sign the bud is too old, and it should be rejected.

When the wood is too old or too young, the shield may be taken off only about one-eighth of the way through the shoot, and inserted into the stock without removing the portion of the wood it contains: this method, particularly with very young shoots, is very successful. If it is necessary to transport the buds to some distance, this may be safely done by cutting a portion of the shoot, and, after cutting off the foliage, wrap them up in damp moss, a few large leaves, or wet paper, when they may be kept for three or four days. In applying the bud to the stock, an incision is to be made lengthwise through the bark (but not so as to injure the wood), about an inch in length; and this is to be diagonally crossed at the top by another incision, as shown in Fig. 21. The thin ivory handle, or back of the knife, should then be used to raise the bark, as shown in Fig. 22, and the shield inserted within, gently pressing it to the bottom of the perpendicular incision. When it is properly placed, the portion of it above the diagonal cross should be cut off, as in Fig. 23, and great care should be taken that the bud is in close contact with the wood of the stock. When this is done, bind it up with damp matting, or cotton twist, all except the bud, (see Fig. 24,) which must be left free to the air, but protected from the powerful action of the sun or wet, either of which would defeat the whole operation. In two weeks the suction.

In two weeks the success or failure will be known, when the bandages must be loosened, though not entirely taken away. From July to the middle of September budding may be done, choosing always cloudy weather, or a few days after a heavy rain; but, for limited operations, any evening may be chosen, always following the indication of the free parting of the wood from the bark; for if the bark does not rise with facility, the buds are liable to perish for want of a due supply of nourishment. The buds should always be selected from vigorous young wood, that has nearly done growing. Cut off the leaves, allowing about half an inch of the footstalk to remain for the convenience of inserting the buds. Early in the ensuing Spring, the stocks on which those buds are that have taken, should be headed down to within two inches of the bud, which will then grow rapidly, and must be tied in an upright form to the portion of the stock left above the eye for that purpose. When it has made a good growth, and during the month of July or August, the stock should be cut off close to the shoot by a sloping back cut, when it will soon be covered with the growth of the wood. Those stocks that have not taken, should be grafted as soon in the Spring as that operation can be performed.

Preparation of Scions.—These are usually selected from the young wood of the previous season's growth, as well as those of one or even two years; though the former is to be preferred, and should be taken from the outside branches that have been fully exposed to the sun and air. They should be cut from the parent tree, any time from January to the period of growth. When they are collected, label each sort correctly, and place them in the ground, covered to within an inch of their tops, till the season of grafting arrives, which is just before the buds open to growth. Cut the scions into lengths of from three to five eyes; and where there is an abundance, use the middle portion of the shoot only.

Planting.—This season extends from the first of November till the swelling of the buds in Spring. Autumnal planting is to be preferred in light, dry soils; and Spring planting in retentive and heavy soils. Any time during the Winter season will do, when neither frost nor snow prevents the operation; but do not at any time expose the roots of trees in frosty, dry, windy weather; and in lifting trees, always retain as many of the fibres as practicable, and cut off neatly all that are bruised; with these precautions, trees from five to fifteen years old may be safely removed. We have seen entire orchards totally ruined at first by careless planting. In some, the trees lying to one side just as chance or the wind made them; in others, the trees hard-looking and bark-bound by deep planting. The former is sheer neglect in securing the tree to a stake; the latter, misapplied care. Writers on the subject say, “Dig a pit eighteen inches or two feet deep, and fill it up with rich compost; plant the tree therein one or two inches deeper than it was in the nursery row.” This looks very well, but when applied it proves a grave to thousands. In the first place, the hole is much too deep: the soil, being all loose and fresh, decomposes, and falls down a few inches, taking the tree with it, so that in two years (just when the tree should put forth luxuriantly) it falls into the pit prepared for it, never to recover. Dig the pit or hole fully one foot deep, and three or four feet wide; break and prepare the soil well, in which place on its top your tree, over which lay a load of well prepared soil, sufficient to cover the roots entirely. Place a strong support to the tree, to prevent the wind disturbing the roots. The soil will settle, but not so as to take the roots of the tree into a tub of clay; they will always be on the surface, where nature intended them. As the tree will now rely on the new, vigorous fibres, which will be produced in its new station, if the soil be fine, moist, and warmed by the sun’s influence, no fears need be entertained but that they will come forth to carry on the growth of the plant. Many trees have to be procured from a distance, perhaps thousands of miles. If nursery trees, they are generally packed in bundles,—packed is perhaps too business-like an expression,—they are tied like a bundle of fuel for the kitchen. Trees that have to be sent a great distance should be packed in boxes. The purchaser had better pay twice the cost of such, to have it done, as they are frequently as dry as rods when they come to hand. In such a case, have the trees soaked in water a few hours, and cover them up in wet straw or hay for twelve hours more; then puddle their roots in earth made to the consistency of thin mush. Plant them out in their proper places, and give the stems and branches a syringing with water every day till they have begun to grow, and occasionally afterwards. If you have not got a syringe, use a bowl, a basin, or any other utensil that will distribute the water.