The Family Kitchen Gardener (1856)/Foreign Grape

by Robert Buist

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FOREIGN GRAPE.

This is the Vìtis vinífera of botanists, a fruit of the East, where it luxuriates in profusion, being the food and drink of many of the inhabitants of those countries. In these climates it grows without limit, and even under the dry, genial suns of France and the countries bordering on the Mediterranean Sea, it attains great perfection. This climate, however, is inimical to its growth, and after bearing for a few years, it suddenly dies off. Its perfection can only be attained under glass; but with that as a cover, and a knowledge of the cause and effect of the disease to which it is subject, it will amply repay the attention paid to its culture. For such a purpose we introduce the following varieties:

Black Frontignan.—A very rich-flavored Grape, with a peculiar, musky flavor. Bunches rather small, long and compact. Berries medium size; skin thin, covered with a violet bloom. A good bearer; bunches about one pound weight.

Black Hamburg is the best of all Grapes, taking into consideration its combined qualities of productiveness, large size, and fine flavor. Bunches rather tapering, with two or three shoulders, making what is called a well-shouldered bunch. Berries large, sometimes four inches in circumference, rather round, of a jet black color, but vary very much under different treatment; in a warm, moist, or dry atmosphere, ripening from a pale red to its proper color; skin rather thick. Flesh rich, juicy and melting. It is a very large bunch, weighing three pounds.

Black Prince.—If the Black Hamburg has a rival, it is in this Grape. In this vicinity, growers generally prefer it. Bunches tapering and well shouldered. Berries large, of a fine black, not so closely set on the bunch as the Hamburg. Flesh melting, juicy and high flavored. A great bearer and always colors well. A very large bunch will weigh three pounds; wood strong.

Charges Henling.—A black Grape from the south of France, introduced by me four years ago. Bunches long and tapering. Berries medium size; color jet black, with a violet bloom. Flesh melting, very juicy, spicy and sprightly; flavor distinct from any other Grape. A great bearer, either in pots or in the ground; bunches from a pound to a pound and a half.

Chasselas Golden, White Chasselas, Royal Muscadine, White Muscadine, Chasselas de Fontainebleau, with many other names, all belong to two varieties of the Grape, very much assimulated, and in which there is great confusion. Bunches long and tapering, with one or two shoulders. Berries medium size; of a white, changing to a bright, transparent, golden color, when fully exposed to the sun. Flesh tender, melting, rich and sugary. A prolific bearer. We have seen a vine in a pot with twenty-nine bunches of fruit on it.

Decan’s Superb.—A new Grape, imported by me three years ago, and promises to be the finest white Grape we have in culture for size and bearing, with an excellent flavor. Bunches large, well shouldered. Berries perfectly round, three to four inches in circumference; of a greenish-white color. Flesh and flavor very similar to the Hamburg. A strong grower.

Muscat of Alexandria.—Bunches large, as broad as they are long. Berries oval, of a fine yellowish-white color. Flesh firm, with a rich, sweet, musky flavor, peculiar to this variety; few seeds; requires to be fully transparent before being cut; in fact it is not ripe till it begins to shrivel. Many growers cut it before maturity. A large bunch will weigh two pounds. A very strong grower.

Muscat blanc hatif, or Early White Muscat.—A very early sort, with well formed bunches. Berries perfectly round, of a yellow-white color. Flesh very rich, juicy, spicy, and high flavored. A great bearer; large bunches will weigh a pound and a half.

Red Frontignan, or Grizzly Frontignan.—Bunches long and tapering. Berries perfectly round, of a copper or red color; medium size, and set thickly on the bunch. Flesh rich, spicy, juicy and excellent. The best of Grapes; when once tasted, if perfectly ripe, it will not be forgotten. The fruit should hang on the vine till it begins to shrivel. A large bunch will weigh a pound and a half.

West’s, St. Peters, or Black Lombardy.—Bunches very long (fifteen inches) if well grown. Berries round, of a dull red color, closely set. Flesh juicy and melting. Will hang on the vines till frost; for this it is valuable. Foliage very much lobed, very large branches. Will weigh two and a half to three pounds. A strong grower and great bearer.

White Frontignan.—In character and flavor like the Red. Color of a waxy white, with a fine powdery bloom on the fruit.

White Sweet Water.—Very early. Bunches rather small, as is the fruit. Berries round, of a pale-green, transparent color. Flesh thin, sugary, and sweet. A very distinct sort; large bunches will weigh one pound.

Erections.—We here admit that the above described Grapes cannot be grown in the open air with any degree of success. We therefore propose to give a simple detail for a cheap and permanent structure for their protection. There are few gardens of any pretensions that have not glass sash for hot-beds, pits, &c., during Winter. By way of economy, and to suit those who are parsimonious in rural affairs, we propose erecting a building to suit those sashes, which generally remain unemployed during the season from April to November, the very time that the Grape vines require their aid. Admit

that the sashes of the frames are six feet long, and those of the pit are seven feet, these, according to Fig. 25, will cover a Grapery nine feet high at the back, ten feet wide, and seven feet high in front, allowing two feet for a low front wall, or plank. This Grapery may be of any length, and can be placed against any wall, building, or good permanent fence, at very little cost; and from it heavy crops of Grapes may be obtained every year. In the Winter season, the vines are to be laid down, after being pruned, in any convenient position, and protected by hay, straw, or boards. In April the vines can be tied up, and the sashes put on them whenever they can be spared from the frames and pits. For the admission of air, a portion of the sash can be moveable and fixed with springs, or hooks and staples.

Soil.—There is very little difference of opinion in regard to the nature of the soil genial to the growth and maturity of the Grape. All agree that it should be light and porous, on a dry bottom. The great Grape-growing countries are of that nature, and the vineyards are all planted on rising ground or declivities. The various modes of accomplishing this, is frequently very ludicrous. A great pit is prepared, three to four feet deep, filled with one or two feet of stones, bricks, and other rough material, over which is put a mixture of offal, bones, lime, and other rich manures, with a small portion of good, virgin earth. In such receptacles the roots very soon rot, the vines become weak, and finally, after a few years of meagre existence, they die—as might have been expected. If we could make a choice of locality, or even no choice, the most appropriate place on level ground would be, to plant the vines or the surface, or, in other words, make the vine border above the ground. It would then always be dry and sweet, and if too dry, water might be given when required. Soils for the growth of this plant must be-dry, and free from excess of moisture at any season. The excrementitious matter discharged from the roots of a vine is very great, and if this be given out in cold, retentive soils, they soon become diseased, and a pale and languid vegetation ensues. If, therefore, the bottom is not naturally dry, make it so by draining. Having obtained a dry bottom, by rough materials of any description, cover it to the desired height with fresh turf from a rich pasture, and dig in one-fourth of well-decomposed manure, at least one year old, interspersing it with a few bones of any description, oyster shells, road scrapings from the turnpike, or any other enriching material that undergoes slow decomposition. The whole must be repeatedly turned, and allowed to settle before the vines are planted. Extreme caution has to be used in administering bone dust, slaughter-house offal, and other rich manures, especially if the vines are to be planted in it the same season. The surface of the soil should have a descent to carry off rains and snows. Never crop vine borders, nor tread much upon them. Have a trellis walk laid on the soil, for the daily operations of training, tieing, pruning, &c. Stir up the surface of the border once a year with the fork, and give it a dressing of manure. From these remarks it must not be inferred that vines will not grow unless in richly prepared soils. They will grow well in poor, dry, sandy soils, provided they have annually a good portion of rich vegetable or animal matter dug into them every Autumn, and a covering of manure during Winter—the rains passing through which will strengthen the soil and enable it to give great growths and good crops.

Propagation.—This is frequently done by layers, of which we have given a hint under the culture of Native Grapes; also by cuttings of last year's wood; but the best method of growing fine plants is by the single eye. This is the favorite mode of propagating plants for fruiting. Early in February or March we cut the shoots of the preceding year’s wood into eyes, leaving about an inch on each side of the eye, plant these with their eyes uppermost into pots, and place them under glass, either in cold or hot frames prepared for the purpose, or in the window of a warm room, where they will be carefully watered. These eyes may easily be made to grow ten or twelve feet the first season, by constant repotting and watering with liquid manure. Plants grown by this method are decidedly the best rooted, forming more capillary fibres, consequently more nutritious support to the vine is absorbed; they form shorter joints, and are capable of producing a greater quantity of fruit. We have seen a plant of the Black Hamburg, only eighteen months from the eye, have nine bunches, weighing about eight pounds.

Transplanting.—If Grape vines have been cultivated in pots, they may be transplanted at any period of the year, though we give preference to the months of October, November, March or April. Admitting the ground is fully prepared, dig out a place for the reception of the roots, eighteen inches deep, and as wide as the roots require, to lay them, at their full length, without bending or twisting in any manner. If any of them are broken or diseased, cut them off. Keep the roots near the surface, distributing among them fine earth; give each three or four gallons of water, allow it to subside, when fill up with earth and press it down gently with the foot. In such a house as we have figured, one plant to each sash will be enough. The back of the house may be planted with Figs, which should be covered up in Winter, in the same manner as the vines. It is absolutely necessary for the health of the vine that it should be planted where the sun will fully shine upon it during some hours of the day. We have often observed small vines planted in front of the house, where they are entirely shaded from the sun, and had to struggle for weeks or months before they reached the full light and air. In such a case it is preferable to grow the plants in pots, till they are the required height. The first season’s growth should be confined to one stem only, carefully cutting off all lateral shoots within two eyes of the main stem.

Winter Pruning.—This subject is extensively treated on by all writers on the vine, in the horticulture of Great Britain; and those who have undertaken the subject in this country appear to adopt their words. It may do in some soils and latitudes, but when put in practice here, many of the eyes intended for fruiting the coming season start to growth. The error we will take the liberty to point out. In the preceding paragraph we advise the first season’s growth to be confined to one stem; this having been done, cut this shoot down to the bottom of the glass, and allow two shoots to grow from it the next season, and take one bunch of fruit from the strongest shoot, if it shows any. These shoots are to be trained as far as they will grow. Writers say, “top them when one-third, or at farthest, half-way up the rafter:” if this is done in our climate, and the vines in strong health, one-half of the eyes below the stoppings will grow at once, ruining the vine for one year. Our climate elaborates the juices of the plant so fully that a stoppage of its growth has two results, viz.—either destroying the roots or causing a greater reproduction of wood; which in this case is a decided injury. The next Winter cut the weakest shoot to about one eye from the previous year’s wood; and the strongest lay in two or three feet of the past season’s growth. This portion will have ten or twelve eyes, all of which will break and produce fruit. Take only one bunch from each eye; the other shoot allow to grow its full length without fruit during the season. The next Winter cut back the strong shoot that has produced the large crop to within two eyes of the old wood, and allow one shoot to grow therefrom. The strong shoot is to be laid in, or cut back to two or three feet long for fruiting; one shoot to be trained without fruit for the next year’s crop. There may be on the vine four shoots, or the number required, one-half of which lay in to fruit every year, and cut back the other half for fruiting the following season. This is termed the long cane system, and is the one we recommend.

Spur System of Pruning, which is exceedingly simple in detail and practice, and the largest crops of Grapes we have ever seen, were from vines trained on this mode. It is as follows: Allow one shoot to extend from the plant, the whole height of the house. If every thing is in good order, this shoot will be at least three inches round. If under, there is a deficiency; cut it back, and give it another year’s growth. If over it, the vines are too strong, cut this shoot to about four feet of the old wood; from the sides of this stem, young shoots or spurs push forth, which bear fruit. Take only one bunch from each, and stop the growth two eyes above the bunches. At each Winter pruning, these spurs are cut back, leaving two or three eyes to each. These again send out other spurs; take one bunch from each, and so continue from year to year, and you will have fruit in great abundance, though not so fine as on the former method.^[1] Many err in this system in taking two bunches of fruit from each eye, instead of one only. Winter pruning should always be done as soon as the leaves have fallen, otherwise the vine is deprived of matter which would have been stored up in the remaining parts. Never prune back wood of the present year to one eye, as is usually recommended, but leave a long spur of three eyes; the eye or bud nearest the old stem is frequently blind, and even if it does show fruit, it is not so fine as the eyes farther up the shoot; but be careful to retain the best, and rub off the remainder at the earliest stage of growth, always encouraging the base bud shoot to be retained for the next season’s operation. Summer pruning must be strictly attended to, stopping every shoot two leaves above the bunch, after which laterals, or new shoots, will soon be produced. These, stop again every two weeks, to concentrate the energy of the plant on the swelling of the fruit.

Thinning the Fruit.—This portion of culture is too frequently neglected. As soon as the berries are the size of small peas, cut out about one-third of them with a pair of sharp-pointed scissors. This will allow the others to swell more freely. Again, before they begin to color, if they appear crowded, thin out the smallest. This will not reduce the weight of the bunch, unless the thinning is carried to extreme. Never touch the fruit after it begins to color. Handling destroys the fine bloom on the fruit, which is a point of beauty. Tieing up the shoulders does not improve the fruit nor add to the effect.

Routine of Culture under glass, without fire heat. As soon as the frosty nights are over, clean all the wood-work by washing, or white-washing. Lift up the vines from where they have been laid all Winter, and wash them with strong soap-suds, or soft soap and tobacco water, rubbing off all the loose bark, and cleaning them thoroughly. After which tie them up to the places appropriate for them. Every morning after they begin to grow, give them a syringing with water, about an hour after sun-rise, provided the sashes are on the house. If the sashes are not on, they do not require it so frequently. About the end of April, or first of May, the sashes must necessarily be put on to protect the blossom, encourage the growth, and prevent injury in cold nights.

When the fruit has set, the vines may be syringed every afternoon, about four o’clock, having previously shut up the house, not to be opened again till the sun has fairly tempered the atmosphere next day, which will generally be from nine to ten o’clock, if the house fronts south, when air must be given by the top sashes, not allowing the thermometer to go higher than from 90 to 110 degrees.

During the warm, cloudy days of July and August, mildew is sure to appear, and has frequently accomplished great destruction before it is discovered. It is readily known by a yellow, sickly transparency on the leaf, or a greasy, soft feel when you lay hold of it. The best cure is to give copious syringings of water, twice a day, giving plenty of air to the house from ten to three o’clock, in sunshine. If it has far gone, pour four gallons of boiling water over five pounds of flower of sulphur, stir it well, and after allowing it to settle, mix a fourth of this water with that which is used for syringing, which will entirely kill all mildew. Never leave the doors open for any length of time; it causes cold draughts of air through the vines. Cease syringing as soon as the fruit begins to color. Give water to the roots every week, whilst they are in a growing state, till the fruit has fully swelled.

The hints we have thrown out on the culture of this truly luscious fruit will, we think, enable any one to grow it at least to a small degree of perfection; and with a mediocrity of caution and observation, good and regular crops may be obtained for either pleasure or profit.

 

1. Since the above was prepared for the press, we have had an interview with one of the best grape-growers under glass, in the country, at whose Grapery, last year, we saw fruit of the finest quality, in regard to color, size, and flavor. He adopts both methods of pruning, but greatly prefers the cane training as being most simple—the vine having only one or two wounds made on it, the fruit swelling faster, coloring better, and maturing two weeks before that of the spur pruning, where the comparison was fair; being without fire heat. He also syringes his vines freely, till the fruit is about the size of peas, and never afterwards. He never saw red-spider on his vines, and very rarely mildew. Observe that all our remarks apply to grape houses without artificial heat.