The New Dressmaker/Chapter 23
CHAPTER 23
COLLARS, CUFFS AND BELTS
Unlined Collars—Lined Collars—Removable Collars—The High Collar—Collars and Cuffs for Coats, Suits and Capes—Bottom of Dress Sleeve—Unlined Cuff—Lined Cuff—Removable Cuff —Belts—Casings
Ill. 221. Baste a Narrow Strip of Bias Material Along the Edge of the Collar
TO SEW ON AN UNLINED COLLAR baste the collar to the neck with the under side of the collar against the right side of the garment. If the garment is of a material that is not transparent, baste a narrow bias strip of material along the edge of the collar with the edges even. Stitch the seam and clip it at intervals so that it will not draw the neck. (Ill. 221.)
Turn under the edge of the facing and if the collar extends all around the neck, hem the facing to the garment covering the seam. If the collar does not extend all around the neck edge as in Illustration 221, turn under the inner edge of the facing on that part of the neck which is beyond the collar. Stretch it to fit the neck and stitch it close to the fold but not to the garment. The facing should simply be pressed. It lies flat against the garment without being stitched and as there is no strain on it it will stay in place. (Ill. 221.)
Ill. 222. Seam Binding May Be Used in Place of a Facing
Seam binding may be used instead of a facing. It should be sewed on flat as in Illustration 222. It should be put on so that the lower edge is not tight on the garment, easing the upper edge in wherever it is necessary to make it lie flat. (Ill. 222.)
If the garment is of sheer material, the collar may be sewed on with machine hemstitching (Chapter 25, page 118), with a narrow rolled hem or a flat fell seam (Chapter 17, page 87) or the seam may be trimmed off to ¼ inch width and finely overcast. The machine hemstitching is the daintiest finish.
TO MAKE AND SEW ON A LINED COLLAR turn under the seam allowance along the outer edge of the collar and sew on the trimming or stitch it in any way desired before the collar is lined. Turn under the outer edge of the collar lining ¼ of an inch more than the collar itself and baste it to the wrong side of the collar with the edge of the lining about ⅛ of an inch within the edge of the collar, taking care not to stretch it or pull the edges. (Ill. 223 on next page.)
Baste the lining to the collar a little more than an inch from the neck edge. Baste the collar to the neck edge of the garment with the right side of the collar to the wrong side of the garment and with the seam toward the outside of the garment. Stitch the seam. Baste the lining neck edge over the seam and hem it down neatly by hand. (Ill. 223.)
Ill. 223. Basting the Lining to the Collar
TO FINISH A REMOVABLE COLLAR. A removable collar for the open neck of a garment not made of sheer material is usually finished with a bias binding about ½ an inch wide finished. Sew one long edge of the binding to the neck edge of the collar (Ill. 224), turn in the other long edge of the seam allowance and baste it over the first sewing. (Ill. 224.) Then stitch or hem it by hand as shown in Illustration 224.
Ill. 224. Finishing a Removable Collar
When the removable collar is for a waist of sheer material it is best to finish the neck edge of the garment and collar with picot edging (Chapter 25, page 119) or with a narrow rolled hem. (Chapter 27, page 133.)
For the rolled hem a thread should be run in the neck edge of the collar before rolling it, to keep the size and prevent stretching while rolling the hem and working on it, for the edge is bias.
STANDING COLLAR. If the collar is to be of woolen or silk like the gown, it should be lined with a piece of soft, light silk. Turn over all the edges of the collar and baste. Slip-stitch the lower edge to the neck.
If closed at the left side, the entire collar, except the small portion at the back, is sewed to the neck. The neck of the lining at the left side, which is free, is bound with seam-binding. For a waist with a front closing, bind the left side of the neck with seam-binding, pin the collar around the right side, with the center of collar at the front edge of the right front, and the right end of collar at the center-back seam. (Ill. 225.)
Ill. 225. The Standing Collar Sew the collar to the neck, being careful not to catch the stitches through the outside material. Sew three hooks on the left end of the collar on the inner side (Ill. 225) and one to its lower edge about half-way between the center front and back.
Cut the facing (preferably of silk) the same shape as the collar. Turn in the edges of the facing and hem it to the collar on the left side, and to the neck of the right side of the waist. Work three buttonhole loops at the right of the collar, and one in the left side of the waist at the neck. The collar and facing are shown in Illustration 225.
COLLARS AND CUFFS FOR COATS AND SUITS AND CAPES. Instructions for making these collars and cuffs are handled in the chapter on the making of these garments. (Chapter 12.)
THE BOTTOM OF A DRESS SLEEVE should be finished with a hem or bias facing or seam-binding sewed on flat like a facing, or with a trimming suitable to the garment.
AN UNLINED CUFF is sewed on a dress sleeve in the same way as an unlined collar. (Ills. 221 and 222.)
A LINED CUFF WHICH TURNS BACK is sewed on in the same way as a lined collar. (Ill. 223.)
A REMOVABLE CUFF is finished in the same way as a removable collar. (Ill. 224.)
THE CUFFS FOR A MANNISH SHIRT-WAIST. The making and sewing on of a mannish shirt-waist cuff will be found in the chapter on Shirt-waists. (Chapter 8.)
A BELT may be cut double, the edges turned in toward each other, basted and stitched.
It may be cut in two portions, an outer portion and an under portion or lining, the edges turned in toward each other, basted and stitched.
It may be cut in two portions, an outer portion and an under portion, which may be laid with the right sides face to face and stitched together on three sides. It is then turned right side out and the open edges slip-stitched together.
A CASING is used for a garment that must be comfortable at the waistline, knees, ankles, etc. In some instances the casing is formed by a hem stitched on both turned edges.
In other cases a casing is applied on either the right or wrong side of the garment.
An elastic or drawstring is drawn through the casing to adjust the garment as desired.
A casing is a straight piece of material with its edges turned under as shown in Illustration 226. The width of the casing depends on the character of the garment and where it is used. For example, you would require a wider casing at the waistline of mohair serge bloomers than at the waistline of a very fine batiste blouse. The casing can be made of the same material as the garment if it is suitable. In the case of mohair serge or any other material that would make a clumsy casing you can use a piece of strong silk or lining material for the casing.
The casing is sewed flat to the garment at both edges either by hemming it (Ill. 226) or stitching it by machine.
Ill. 226. Sewing on a Casing
A BELT CASING is a double belt a little larger than the waist size. The ends are left open and an elastic or tape is run through the casing to regulate the fulness around the waist. This belt casing is usually stitched where the belt joins the blouse and again just above the folded lower edge of the casing.