How to See the Vatican

by Douglas Brooke Wheelton Sladen

The Grotte Nuove of St. Peter's, showing the Confessio of Matteo Pollaiuolo on the right and the light shining from St. Peter's Tomb upon the Sarcophagus of Junius Bassus.

HOW TO SEE THE
VATICAN

BY

DOUGLAS SLADEN

AUTHOR OF
"HOW TO SEE ITALY" "ORIENTAL CAIRO"
"SICILY, THE NEW WINTER RESORT"
"QUEER THINGS ABOUT JAPAN" ETC. ETC.

WITH SIXTY HALF-TONE PLATES AND A MAP

LONDON:

KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, TRÜBNER, & CO. LTD

NEW YORK : JAMES POTT AND COMPANY

1914

CONTENTS
		page
Publishers' Note		v
Preface		vii
A List of the Popes, with their Dates, Places of Birth, and Family		xix
About the Vatican In General.
chap.
I.	Introduction	1
II.	What the Vatican consists of. Being a specific classification and explanation, with a numbered plan, for the first time given in English, of all the vast building—the largest in the world—known as the Vatican, which comprises the Palace of the Popes, six chapels, a dozen courts, many museums, sculpture galleries, and loggie; the Borgia Apartments; Guard-rooms, factories, libraries, gardens, etc. etc.; the famous Vatican Picture Gallery, tapestries, crypts, etc. etc.	14
Parts of the Vatican not generally shown to the public.
III.	The Story of the Vatican Hill in ancient Roman times, when it was the farm from which Cincinnatus was called to be Dictator, and contained the Garden of Agrippina, the mother of Nero ; and the Circus where St. Peter and other Christians suffered martyrdom	45
IV.	The Story of the Building of the Vatican at various epochs	56
V.	A Description of Old St. Peter's, the great basilica founded by Constantine the Great, which existed for a thousand years before it was destroyed to make room for the present St. Peter's. Never before fully described in any English book	86
VI.	On the Remains of Old St. Peter's still preserved in Rome	117
VII.	The Grotte Vaticane, or Crypt of St. Peter's; which contain the Tomb of St. Peter and the Tombs of the Popes, and Shrines from Old St. Peter's. The Grotte Nuove, North Portion	138
VIII.	The Grotte Vecchie The eastern part of the Crypt	158
IX.	The Grotte Nuove, south side	182
X.	Nicholas v. and the Vatican: the Chapel of Nicholas v.	190
XI.	The Vatican Library, with its thirty-five thousand manuscripts: Picture Gallery, Ancient Roman Frescoes, Christian and Profane Museums	213
XII.	The Visits of Montaigne and Misson to the Vatican Library	242
XIII.	Leo xiii. and the foundation of the New Leonine Library where the printed books are now kept	253
XIV.	The Vatican Archives and the work of Cardinal Mai	266
XV.	The Private Gardens of the Pope	278
XVI.	The Pope's Coach-house: an Account of the old Cavalcata: the Vatican Workshops of Mosaics and Tapestries	294
XVII.	Raffaelle's Tapestries	309
XVIII.	The Paoline and Leonine Chapels and the Pope's Private Tapestry Rooms	294
XIX.	The Sistine Treasury	329
XX.	The Sacristy of St. Peter's	339
XXI.	The Dome of St. Peter's	345
XXII.	The Borgia Apartments	353
XXIII.	The Etruscan Museum	386
Index		407

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
The Grotte Nuove of St. Peter's. Showing the Confessio of Matteo Pollaiuolo on the right, and the light shining from St. Peter's Tomb upon the Sarcophagus of Junius Bassus		Frontispiece
facing page
The Court of the Casino of Pius iv. in the Vatican Gardens		2
The Dalmatic of Charlemagne in the Sacristy of St. Peter's		8
facing page
Map of the Vatican		10
backing on page
Ground Plan of the Vatican		14
From Pistolesi's Il Vaticano Descritto ed Illustrato.
Charity. Carved by Mino da Fiesole for Paul ii.'s Mausoleum, now in the Grotte Nuove of St. Peter's Crypt		16
Faith. By Mino da Fiesole, in the Grotte Nuove in St. Peter's Crypt		17
facing page
Giovanni da Udine's Loggia before it was glazed		24
From Pistolesi's Il Vaticano.
The Fire in the Borgo, from the painting by Raffaelle in his Stanze. Showing the exterior of Old St. Peter's		30
From Pistolesi's Il Vaticano.
The Scala Regia of the Vatican. Designed by Bernini		32
The famous Aldobrandini Wedding in the Vatican Library. The finest picture which has survived from Classical times		36
backing on page
St. Peter's and the Vatican. The top wing on the right hand contains the apartments of the Pope		44
From Pistolesi's Il Vaticano.
The Piazza of St. Peter's as it is to-day ; on the right, above the Colonnade, is the Palace of the Vatican, the right wing of which contains the apartments of the Pope		45
backing on page
Panvinio's Plan showing the relation of Nero's Circus to St. Peter's, and Hadrian's Circus to his Tomb, now the Castle of Sant' Angelo		48
From Pistolesi's Il Vaticano.
The Circus of Nero, where St. Peter was executed, as reconstructed by G. Fontana		49
From Pistolesi's Il Vaticano.
facing page
The Crucifixion of St. Peter by Giotto now in the Sacristy of St. Peter's. The earliest known work of art in which the Tomb of Romulus and the Tomb of Caius Cestius are shown as the Duae Metae		52
From Pistolesi's Il Vaticano.
Sarcophagus of Nicolas v. in the Grotte Vecchie of St. Peter's Crypt. The carvings of Mino da Fiesole in the Crypt belonged to the Mausoleum over it		62
backing on page
The Courtyard of S. Damaso before the arcades were glazed by Pius ix. Drawn and engraved by G. Fontana. The apartments of the Pope occupy the right wing		64
From Pistolesi's Il Vaticano.
The Court of S. Damaso since Pius ix. glazed its arcades. The Pope's apartments are to the right, where the carriage is standing		65
facing page
The Pavilion of the Casino of Pius iv. in the Vatican Gardens		72
The Ceiling of the Sala Regia		74
Giampietro Chattard's Plan of St. Peter's and its Portico		78
From Pistolesi's Il Vaticano.
Exterior of Old St. Peter's, Rome. Reproduced by permission from the British Museum Guide to the Early Christian and Byzantine Antiquities		84
The Grotte Vecchie of St. Peter's Crypt. Showing the Sarcophagus of the Old Pretender on the extreme right, and the urn containing the praecordia of Pius ix. next to it		90
Filippo Bonanni's reconstruction of the Basilica of Constantine		96
The Porch of St. Peter's		102
From Pistolesi's Il Vaticano.

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