First day's journey—Entrance into Switzerland—Morning
at Berne—Evening at Enghe—That which the Alps and
the Sun said to me—Thun—The Titans when seen more
nearly—A bath in the Aar—Queen Bertha—Arrival at
Lausanne—Chilly days—New acquaintance—Picture of
the Confederate States of Switzerland—“Des Terneaux”
Chapel—The Free Church—Questions and Cogitations
which led me to Switzerland—A. Vinet—Sketch of
Lausanne and its everyday life—“A la Montagne!”
Rossinières—Our large Beehive—Life in the high valleys—The
footpath—The young girls and the Sunday-school—Chateau-d'Œx—My
Chateau—The meeting at La Lechevette—Rambles
in the Alpine valleys—La Comballez—Les
Ormondes—Père Ansermez—The Folk-life of the high
valleys—The Free Church—The Church of the future—The
Idea of Protestantism
Hasli valley and the Swedish emigrants—Rosenlaui—Grimsel—Gloomy
scene—The source of the Rhone—The Forest
Cantons—Grutli and its heroes—Life in Schwytz—Two
types of Conservatism—Sunday on Rhigi—Nicholas de
Flue—Life in Zürich—Einsiedeln, its pilgrims and
teachers—Zwingli—My home in Zürich—Journey to
Basle—Missionary Institution and Missionaries
From Basle to Brussels—That which took me there—Le
Congrès International de Bienfaisance—The New Exposition—Conversation
with King Leopold—“The Little
Sisters of the Poor.”—Festivals and Ideas of the Future in
Belgium—Ghent and the Beguines—Lace Making—Bruges—Flanders—A
House in the Country—Ruysselede and
Bernhem—Antwerp—Rubens' House—A Glance at
Holland—A Statesman—Journey to Paris
Paris at the present time, and Paris thirty years
ago—Prado—Valentino—“La Salpétriére.”—The Evangelical
Church—The Deaconess-Institution—“Revue Chrétienne”—Statue
of Joan d'Arc—An Attic and a Happy Couple—The
Emperor and France
Again in Switzerland—Railway Irregularities—Vintage at
Montreux—Romantic Illusions—New Acquaintance—The
First Prisoner of Uri—Winter Residence at Lausanne—War
and Peace in Switzerland—Still Life—New Life and
New Interests—Young Italy—Its Patriots and
Poets—“Risorgimento d'Italia”—The Waldenses in Piedmont—New
Plans for my Journey—I must see Italy—Spring Life
at Lausanne—Educational Institute—A. Vinet
In Geneva—Countess de Gasparin—Merle d'Aubigné. The
Arve and Rhone—Mont Salève—The Hero of the Scene—Visit
to the Workshops of Watch-makers—Women's
Work—A Female Worker—Churches and Ecclesiastical
Affairs—Intellectual Life—Geneva, the Paradise of Unmarried
Women—Calvin's “Institutions”—Jargonaut—“The
Living Water”—Domestic Life—A New Flower—An
Old Calvinist—Old and New Geneva
Neufchâtel—A Home upon the Heights—Charles Secretan—Flights—The Industrial High-valleys—La Chaux de
Fonds—Locle and Travers—The Island of St. Piérre—Federal Festival at Berne—Again on Lake Leman—Chamouni and St. Bernard—Rest by “the living waters”—Last days in Switzerland—Monte Rosa—To Italy!
Journey over the Simplon—Domo d'Ossola—Bad Weather—La
Tosa—Unexpected Meeting—Lago Maggiore—“Stock-Fish”—Isola
Bella and Isola Madre—The Valleys of the
Waldenses; their People, History, Latest Deliverance,
and Present Life—Rambles and New Friends—Turin—The
Po and Monte Viso—Carlo Alberto—Victor Emanuel—Count
de Cavour—Gioberti—Cesare Balbo—Primato d'Italia—Speranze
d'Italia—What are the Wishes of Italy?
A Week in Genoa—Folks-Life—Palaces—Italian Evangelical
Church—Journey to Spezia—Glance over the
Sardinian States—Pisa—Exterior of Hospitals—Pisa,
formerly and at the present time—The Leaning
Tower—Catharina Ferucci—La Donna Italiana—Rosa Ferucci—The
Cathedral of San Piso—Florence—Life—Art—Beauty—La
Specola—Galileo—La Tribuna—Tuscany as formerly,
and at the present time—From Florence, by Sienna, to
Rome
In Rome—First impression—First rambles in old and new
Rome—The Pope—The last Judgment—Church
Festivals—Drawing-room Life—Popular Life—Faith in Miracles—The
Catacombs—A Poetess—Christmas-day in the
Vatican—Child preachings—S. Paulo fuori de
Mure—Attempt at Conversion—A little of Every thing—Close of
the year 1857
New Year's Thoughts—Romantic Preludes—Festal Life in
Rome—Beggars—“Museo Christiano”—Evening in the
Palazzo Farnese—Festival of the Propaganda—Cold and
Catarrh—View from the Capitol—Carnival—La
Grippe—Preparations for Lent—Pontifical Jubilee, and Pontifical
Bill of Fare—Soirée at the Grants'—Cardinal Antonelli
Trinita di Monte—Conversion—Audience of the Pope—A
little about the Pope and St. Peter—The Grand-Duchess
Helena—Four Cardinals—Conversation of a Nun—Lent
Sermons—The Carmelite Monk—Père Marie Louis—The
Drive to Frascati and Tivoli—The Holy Week—An Abjuration—Festival
and Danger—Retraite i Sacré
Cœur—Conversion-fight, in evil and in good—Still an Abjuration—Removal
to the Capitol—New Life—Little discoveries and
experiences—The Catholic Church during the month of
May—My Resume—Departure from Rome
Arrival at Naples—Eruption of Vesuvius—Life in
Naples—Unexpected arrival at Ischia—Mrs. M. and Mr. N.—An
enchanted Island—The Princess Elsa and Waldo—Romantic
Days and Weeks—The King and Queen of Naples—The
People on the Island—Sorrento—Love and Disquiet—Noble
and Ignoble Love—Folks-Festival and Folks-Life—Our
Domestic Life—Worship of the Virgin—The Prince
of Syracuse—Days at Capri—Amalfi—Salerno—Pestum—Pompeii—Something
enchanted—The Romance
continued—How will it end?
The Miracle of San Gennaro—The Royal Family of Naples—Museo
Borbonico—The Minister of the Interior, Bianchini—The
Inner Life of Naples—The Innermost—Benevolent
Institutions—The Handsome Nuns—System of Government
in Naples—Excursion to Caserta and Portici—Villa
Reale and the comet—The Folks-Theatre of Naples—New
Acquaintance—New Troubles—The Prince of Villa
Ambrosa—The Princess Elsa—A Day in
Pompeii—Magnanimity and Despair—Rapid Journey to Sicily and—The
End