Narrative of a Voyage Round the World (Belcher)/Volume 1/Chapter 5
CHAPTER V.
Changes since 1828 — Result of revolution — Delawares — Visit Santa Clara — Decay of the mission — Examine Sacramento — Meet Indian hunters — Reach Point Victoria — Commence survey of river — Short of provisions — Grotesque dresses of Indians — Decrease of population — Animals — Climate — Productions — Scenery of river — Scarcity of provisions — Rejoin Starling — Insecure state of the country — Renegadoes — Quit San Francisco — Anchor at Monterey — State of its defences — Quit Monterey — Pass Cape Sau Lucas — Touch at Tres Marias — Reach San Blas.
CHAPTER V.
At daylight I was anxious to take a peep at our old ground, and was much surprised to find everything going to decay, and infinitely worse than we found them ten years before.
Of the revolution, of which we heard much and expected more, not a trace could be observed; it was a sore subject, and (as it resulted) they were evidently aware of their inability to govern themselves: no one stepped forward to attempt it, and they quietly fell back under the Mexican yoke. Another fate attends this country; their hour is fast approaching; harassed on all sides by Indians, who are now stripping them of their horses, without which their cattle are not to be preserved; pestered by a set of renegado deserters from whalers and merchant ships, who start by dozens, and will eventually form themselves into a bandit gang, and domineer over them; unable, from want of spirit, to protect themselves; they will soon dwindle into insignificance. As a proof of their apathy or helplessness, a party of Delaware Indians, or American hunters, had a permit from the Governor to hunt for furs "in the back country." Their time being expired, the chief returned, but the remainder, having appointed a new head, are now carrying on land-piracy throughout the state. In open day they rode to the mission of St. Luis, and took from the "corral" all the horses belonging to the mission, (said to be a thousand!) desiring the administrador to keep clear of rifle range.
Having a special introduction to the Padre Presidente of the mission residing at Santa Clara, I set out, accompanied by Lieutenant Kellett and our surgeon, to visit him; hoping to obtain the necessary table supplies from the missions, instead of taking our chance at the beach. After much toil, and a night spent in the marshes by the fault of a bad pilot, we reached Santa Clara to breakfast, but were miserably disappointed, the padre being absent at San Josef. The mission is fast falling to decay, and scarcely common civility was shown to us.
Lately, all the missions have been transferred into the hands of administradores, who, under the new law, take about two-thirds to themselves, and account for the remaining third to government. The consequence is, that the Indians are robbed; they do nothing but rob when they can, run away to escape punishment, and then form themselves into gangs, and set their masters at defiance. The missions, the only respectable establishments in this country, are thus annihilated; they have been virtually plundered by all parties.
These were the only places of resort for travellers throughout California, and even in their palmy times were only tolerable; but now a meal cannot be procured without difficulty, and travellers must rely upon their own resources.
On my return to the ship, I started with the Starling, pinnace, two cutters, and two gigs, to explore the navigable limit of the Rio Sacramento; one of three streams, diverging about thirty miles up the north-western arm of Estrecho Karquines, where the Blossom's survey terminated.
At dawn, on the 24th of October, we started, and carried the Starling thirty-six miles. On the 26th, the pilot assuring us that she could not be carried further, we stored our boats with as much provision as they could stow, and moved on. We soon found our pilot mistaken, but it was now too late, our measures were taken, and several boats twenty miles in advance. With a most beautiful day we advanced, touching at particular spots for astronomical stations. Ducks and geese were noticed in great numbers; also elk and deer, in herds of twenty and thirty; but there was no time for delay.
From former descriptions of the river, I was greatly disappointed at not meeting with either the San Joachim or Jesus Maria, equally large streams, said to trifurcate north and south with the Sacramento. These streams may possibly be found upon a closer examination, but no such idea is conveyed, even to the inquisitive observer, on entering the mouth of the Sacramento, which becomes a narrow stream about twenty miles above the position where we left the Starling; the intermediate extensive sheet of water forming a great archipelago. As our entry was on the northern edge of this archipelago, we were satisfied that no great river ran in the direction of or behind "Elk Range;" the two streams, if they fork here, must be southerly.
On our left the high range of the Montes Diavolo, as well as Elk range, appeared to bound the limits of water. On our rio-lit the rano-e of the Sierras Bolbones was visible, equally from the sea as from the source of the Sacramento. All the intermediate space in the rainy season may be under water, and at such a period, the trifurcation may possibly be apparent; but our guide appeared quite as much in the dark as ourselves, and could not afford any satisfactory explanation.
This guide was one of those trained in former days to hunt for Christians![1] and frequently, on being pressed upon a subject of which he really knew nothing, would reply, "I only know where to find the Indians."
As these Indians were sought for in streams which flowed southerly of the Bolbones, and at the back of the range, behind San Josef, the San Joachim probably flows in that direction, branching off at the archipehigo near the entrance of the Sacramento, but certainly not navigable, nor entitled to be named as a river in conjunction with its majestic neighbour.
Having entered the Sacramento, we soon found that it increased in Addth as we advanced, and at our noon station of the second day was about one-third of a mile wide. The marshy land now gave way to firm ground, preserving its level in a most remarkable manner, succeeded by banks well wooded Avith oak, planes, ash, willow, chesnut, walnut, poplar, and brushwood. Wild grapes in great abundance overhung the lower trees, clustering to the river, at times completely overpowering the trees on which they climbed, and producing beautiful varieties of tint. All our efforts were directed to reach the head of the stream without delay, stopping only at nine a.m., noon, and three p.m., for astronomical stations. As my boat was swift, these short delays afforded rest to the men, and we very soon overtook those in advance.
About half way up we observed Indians on our right, but were soon apprised of their friendship by our guide, Avho brought their pass from the General Vallejo, "to absent themselves from the mission of San José, in order to make treaties with the natives or wild Indians;" or in other terms, to make trade for peltry, &c. Two of these volunteering to join our party, and hoping through them to get into communication with others, by whom we might be supplied with venison, &c., we willingly took them into the boats.
On the 30th, about four p.m., we found the deep boats stopped at a point where the river forked. Lieutenant Kellett was despatched to examine the main stream, but returned without having passed out of sight, reporting "no water for our lightest boats." The natives also assured us that this was the ford where the hunters cross.
I landed at "the Fork," which was named Point Victoria, and found the natives had but shortly fled, leaving a large stock of acorns, and all their provisions, fires, &c., behind.
Every experiment was resorted to in order to get an answer from them. The natives who accompanied us called loud enough, and doubtless they were close to us ambushed, but afraid to reply. I therefore attached a knife, some tobacco, and beads? and left them to be picked up when the natives returned. On the following morning I perceived them crouching in the grass. One had a metal band on his brow, through which some feathers were passed. They were not clothed, and appeared a wretched-looking race. They disregarded every overture made to them by our two Indians, whom I directed to go full in their front on the opposite bank, (about pistol-shot across,) and endeavour to arouse them. With my telescope I could observe them wave the hand slowly to indicate their disinclination, and therefore gave up all further hope of friendly communication. Before quitting, I left other presents; and our interpreting friends were very anxious to exhibit their generosity, by easing them of bags of acorns, &c., and were much disconcerted at my refusal to sanction their exploits. They were termed the Wallock tribe by our Indians.
Our extreme position having been satisfactorily determined by astronomical observations, and true bearing of the Sierras Bolbones, the more arduous part of our duty commenced, viz. the trigonometrical survey from hence to the junction with the Blossom's Survey at the mouth of the San Pablo.
By these observations Point Victoria was found to be in latitude 38° 46′ 47″ north, longitude 0° 47′ 31″5 east of the observatory on Yerba Buena; traversing in its meanderings about one hundred and fifty miles.
Throughout the whole extent, from Elk station to the Sacramento mouth, the country is one immense flat, bounded in the distance N.W. by Sierras Diavolo, W. Sierras Bolbones, and E.N.E. to E.S.E. by the Sierras Nievadas, from whence no doubt this river springs, and rises in proportion to the rains and thaws. Our course lay between banks, varying from twenty to thirty feet above the river-level, apparently, from its strata, of differently composed clay and loose earth, produced by some great alluvial deposit. Sand did occur at times, but not a rock or pebble varied the sameness of the banks. These were, for the most part, belted with willow, ash, oak, or plane, (platanus occidentalis,) which latter, of immense size, overhung the stream, without apparently a sufficient hold in the soil to support them, so much had the force of the stream denuded their roots.
Within, and at the verge of the banks, oaks of immense size were plentiful. These appeared to form a band on each side, about three hundred yards in depth, and within (on the immense park-like extent, which we generally explored when landing for positions) they were to be seen disposed in clumps, which served to relieve the eye, wandering over what might otherwise be described as one level plain or sea of grass. Several of these oaks were examined, and some of the smaller felled. The two most remarkable measured respectively twenty-seven feet and nineteen feet in circumference, at three feet above ground. The latter rose perpendicularly at a (computed) height of sixty feet before expanding its branches, and was truly a noble sight.
All the trees and roots on the banks afford unequivocal proofs of the power of the flood-streams, the mud line on a tree we measured exhibiting a rise of ten feet above the present level, and that of recent date.
At the period of our examination the river was probably at its lowest, and much less than I had anticipated in regard to strength, being at times almost still water; and yet up to our highest position the Sulphur might have been warped or towed by a steamer. During the rainy season, which commences about the middle of November, and terminates about the end of February, the river is said to overflow its banks, when its impetuosity is such that navigation (for the craft of this country I suppose) is then impossible. The annual rains do not, however, of necessity inundate these low lands, but in severe seasons, after heavy falls of snow, they produce one immense sea, leaving only the few scattered eminences which art or nature have produced, as so many islets or spots of refuge.
Upon these spots the tribes who inhabit these low lands are frequently compelled to seek shelter, principally, however, on those artificially constructed,—as all were which we examined. They consist merely of a rounded pile, raised about fifteen feet at the apex above the surrounding level; the space from which the earth is removed forming a ditch to carry off the superfluous water.
Our pilot termed them Rancherias, (as they also do any place to which the natives resort,) and assured us that each was the separate property of a distinct tribe. None exceed one hundred yards in diameter; and confined within such a compass, it is fearful to contemplate the ravages which disease must make in an inclement season, or the misery which the survivors must endure thus pent up with the dead and dying.Lately, fever and ague carried off whole tribes; and the spots they had thus so carefully reared, were but their own tombs! On one of these I had fixed a station, and on digging to insert the post, the parts of a skeleton, with hair perfect, mixed with ashes, were turned up. It is, therefore, probable that they burn their dead, to destroy the animal matter, and prevent contagion. This Rancheria was assigned by our pilot (an Indian) to the Onēē-shǎn-á-tēē tribe; but as he appeared to name every tribe below Point Victoria (where they are Wallocks) by the same appellation, I am induced to attach little importance to his nomenclature, as I have been since informed that they keep to the left bank.
At a position nearer Point Victoria where no mound was apparent, many entire skeletons were scattered about, above ground; which probably may have resulted from the mortality before alluded to (a few years since) having cut them off before they could reach their Rancheria. My first impression was, that some great battle had been fought, and that their dead had been left. But this is not customary, and they would not have been left so complete by birds or beasts of prey. As these skeletons appeared less disturbed, it is probable that at these seasons of inundation, birds and beasts retire to the mountains or wooded elevations.
On our passage down, we visited the Indians whom we had found encamped. They were also of the Onēē-shǎn-á-tēē tribe, and were evidently prepared to receive us in better humour.
They appeared as if they had just returned from plundering the dresses of a theatre, being partially clothed in shirts, jackets, trousers, &c; in many instances wearing but half of one of the articles; the effect of which, in the case of trousers, was ridiculous in the extreme. Those who could not sport these grotesque dresses, were fancifully decorated with those pigments which wood fires produce, and which, when nearly dry, was scored off, thus displaying skeletons, tatoos, &c; some indeed exhibited the new patterns of fancy shirts very admirably imitated. The generality, however, were very disgusting.
The first party were without implements of any kind, and probably came on a visit of ceremony, as the spokesman, who was one of our interpreters before alluded to, came to inform me that he had put some fish on board of the boats. Lower down the river, I visited them at their Rancheria, and there had an opportunity of observing them more minutely. Some of the women were clad in cloaks made from the skins of a slate-coloured duck we had not yet seen, (either now or in 1827,) which presented a very neat appearance. All sexes and ages were collected, and all busily employed,—the women pounding and making acorn-bread, boiling huge horse-chesnuts, &c, the men forming arrows. The only apparent formation of a hut beneath the trees, which were their only shelter from the sun, was a kind of partition formed of folding mats. Some bore the marks of tatoo; but this was not common, and was probably a mission taste.
Their general appearance was that of extreme misery and filthiness; and much as I wished to see the completion of one of their arrows then in progress, I was glad to breathe the open air, and free myself from such company. Some of our party induced the hunting set to exhibit their skill with the bow; but they were far from expert. Their implements were but few, and of the simplest kind,—similar, indeed, to those observed at Point Victoria, and probably constructed on the spot, to prevent the labour of conveyance.
They are migratory, and were generally traced by us to have fixed their temporary sojourn under a horse-chesnut, or in the immediate vicinity of acorn grounds. It is probable that they continue travelling and amassing their stock until winter, and then betake themselves to the high grounds or the Rancherias. As habit is second nature, and all these tribes, including all I have seen at the missions, appear of the most degraded class, it is probable that they prefer the latter, ("De gustibus, &c.,) where possibly their friends the ducks and geese, visit them occasionally. Possibly, also, the deer may drop in on them. But the chances are miserably poor, in case of inundation.
The river abounds in fish and muscles, which they take in great quantity; but I suspect they are not sufficiently skilful to capture those of larger dimensions, which we noticed incessantly leaping; probably sturgeon, or a fish resembling it very closely.
Elk and deer were tolerably plentiful; the former are easily taken, and the profusion of antlers found at the Rancherias prove their capture in fair quantity.
The pilot, a native, converted and retained by the mission, informed us that the banks throughout our whole route were once thickly studded with these Rancherias, and with natives to possess them. They are now nearly extinct, and individuals of the tribes are only to be found in the mission.
Let not theorists too eagerly advance the opinion, that the introduction of foreigners depopulates whole tracts. A higher power has operated here.
It is probable that the hunters and Delawares which frequent these grounds, may have in some measure caused them to shift their ground. It is also known that they have most valorously contended even against the rifle, and suffered slaughter rather than retreat, generally severely and fatally wounding their adversaries. These are traditions. Of the mortal sickness which scourged the Columbia and its tribes, as far south as the Colorado in one year, and even penetrated to the rocky mountains, we have the most perfect evidence. The later visitation of the small-pox probably was communicated by an American or Canadian.
The Sacramento was once famed for its beaver and land-otter. They are not scarce at present, but our mission Indians were anxious to induce us to become purchasers of furs which would certainly be termed refuse to the northward.
The climate by day was mild, ranging from 41° to 77°. On one occasion on shore at night it fell as low as 36°. The water ranged from 53° to 56°. Slight rain was experienced on two days, but the weather generally was extremely fine.
Our collection was enriched by some very beautiful ducks, owls, hawks, and other birds, which abounded on the banks. Of four-footed animals few were killed. Cuyote or jackal-fox, racoon, land-otter, weasel, and squirrel, were obtained. I fired twice at small tigers or tiger-cats, but they were too thickly clad for small shot to make any impression. The party succeeded in taking an elk and a deer, and killing a great quantity of wild geese.
Near the mouth of the river the soil is entirely peaty; so much so, that it was very difficult to use the artificial horizon, particularly on the ebb or flood-tides. The spring-tides overflow all the lower lands, which are well stored with long flag grass, and rushes of great size, of which latter the natives construct their balsas. The ground does not assume a substantial bearing until the flood is overcome by the fresh water; and there the soil is of the finest kind. Roses, arbutus, and other small shrubs flourish luxuriantly, and wild grain produces and re-sows itself, affording perpetual pasturage to the deer, &c. During the dry season the natives burn this down, and probably by such means destroy many oak plantations which otherwise would flourish.
The oak of California does not bear a high character, although it is the same as that used generally on the eastern coast of America, about the same parallel.
The ash is excellent, but does not attain any great size. Wild grapes generally prefer it, and the varied colours of the dark-green leaves, added to the brown tints of the decaying leaves of the vine, produce, on rounding the different bends of the river, very beautiful contrasts at this season. Our friend the plane, however, will not be eclipsed.
The timber of this tree is solid, and does not swim; when green it seasons well, and I found it made good gunwales and timbers for light boats. Laurel, varieties of oak, sumach, pine, &c., we noticed; also the bulbous root termed ammoles by the Spaniards, and generally used as a detergent in washing. It is roasted, and used by the natives as food. It has a sweetish taste.
The grapes were abundant and well-tasted, but small in size and large in seed, therefore not very great luxuries. Some of the acorns were as sweet as chesnuts. The fruits of the hiccory and walnut we occasionally met with, and not having better, we thought them excellent; but the shells being very thick, and the fruit small, they were as little prized as the grapes.
About twenty miles above the Starling's anchorage we found the water perfectly sweet; we therefore became not only relieved of the weight of this necessary article, but were enabled to luxuriate in draughts of the purest we had tasted for many weary months. To seamen such a luxury seldom occurs, and it is one a landsman can scarcely appreciate. I suspect, however, that the waters of the Sacramento would obtain their preference over all others.
It was otherwise, however, with solid provision. Of this we very soon fell short; and the nature of our duties prevented our seeking assistance with our guns. Twice we were compelled to despatch a boat for fresh supplies, and on each occasion were reduced to a much lower ebb than was either convenient or pleasant. Yet all was cheerfully submitted to, with the exception of one or two bad characters, who were sent to luxuriate on board the ship, as a punishment. They very soon wished themselves on the bad fare, as they termed it.
One boat had hardly quitted us before she fell in with a deer bathing, and to prevent the possibility of losing a regale, they put about ten balls into his head. They did not bring him back to us; time was too precious. They killed an elk near the Starling, but by the blow of an oar. Of him we tasted, but it was coarse meat.
The soil on the banks is generally a loose mixture of sand and clay, entirely alluvial. The bottom varies, from very loose mud to stiff red clay, and occasionally a very quick sand. Two varieties of mytilus and some univalves were obtained.
As we neared the actual mouth of the Sacramento, we were rather more minute in our examination of the creeks, but found nothing to change in our former opinions. On the 18th November we sighted the Starling, and having carried the triangulation up to her nearest position, before sunset had the satisfaction, after twenty-three days confinement in the boats, of again luxuriating in a wholesome bed. As the work of each day was entirely completed on paper before we retired to rest, (sometimes at four a.m.) the severe part of our labours was here ended.
It was my intention to have waited a couple of days at this position, and afforded the party amusement in shooting geese, ducks, elk, and deer, which were in great abundance. But as the Starling's provisions had been forwarded to us, and we had barely sufficient to carry us down, this was necessarily abandoned; although in the course of our operations we were not idle at this work, particularly about sunset; generally bagging our eight or ten heavy geese for the ensuing day. On one excursion the assistant-surgeon of the Starling killed forty-eight geese and eight ducks; at another several elk and deer were wounded; and when our ammunition was expended, a whole herd of elk passed me within ten yards.
Having completed our connexion with the Blossom's Survey up to Yerba Buena, we reached the Sulphur on the 24th November; having been absent altogether on this interesting but harassing service thirty-one days.
As far as navigation is concerned, the Sacramento affords every facility for small craft as high up as the "Fork;" but I cannot at present perceive any advantage to be derived from taking large vessels above the Starling's position, or even above the creek at the mouth of the Estrecho Karquines, which communicates with the mission of San Jose, and which, until settlements are made above, will be the extent of traffic, excepting for timber.
Taking into consideration the whole port of San Francisco, the Sacramento, and minor streams, there is immense field for capital, if the government could protect its citizens or those inclined to reside. At this moment (December, 1837) they are reduced to almost their extreme gasp; harassed by their own servants (who are natives) deserting and carrying off their property; threatened by the Delawares, who have piratically ranged the country, taking away horses and cattle; disturbed by their late declaration and recantation of independence; they sadly want the interposition of some powerful friend to rescue them. To Great Britain their hopes are directed; why, I cannot learn, but I am much inclined to think that it is rather from a pusillanimous fear, and want of energy to stand by each other and expel their common enemies, than from any friendly feeling to Great Britain.
Besides this, they look with some apprehension upon a power daily increasing in importance—an organised independent band of deserters from American and English whalers, who prefer a roving careless life on horseback, and certainty of food without labour, to the customary hardships of their vocation. These men, headed by one or two noted daring characters now amongst them, will, whenever it suits their purpose, dictate their own terms and set all law at defiance. It is distressing to witness the downfall of this splendid port, all the forts in ruins, not even a signal-gun mounted! Such are the blessings of revolution!
During my absence, the serjeant and corporal of marines, carpenter's mate, and several men and boys, had deserted; seduced, it is supposed, by promises of independence, high pay, promotion, &c. All our efforts to trace them were unavailing. We had strong suspicions that they were concealed by a person heading the mountain gang, (a discharged midshipman,) particularly as the serjeant had been his shipmate before, and he had visited the ship about that period.
Nothing further detaining us here, we embarked the observatory; and on the 30th November took our departure for Monterey, where we arrived on the 2nd December. Here I found my old friend, Mr. Jones, (the American consul to the Sandwich Islands,) who had visited the coast on a matrimonial expedition. As he had just purchased the wreck of an American whaler, which had been driven on the beach, a week since, during a heavy gale, we were fortunate enough to obtain from him a very seasonable supply of beef, pork, flour, and biscuits; of course at a pretty high price. The French frigate, La Venus, our old consort at the Sandwich Islands, had quitted but a few days before, and proceeded to San Blas.
No one should calculate on supplies beyond those immediately connected with present consumption, in any port of California. Bullocks, sheep, and vegetables, (particularly potatoes,) with a few fowls and fruit, are all that can be looked for, and these are of moderate price. All these are much inferior in quality, and fruit is particularly scarce since the destruction of the missions. At San Francisco fine fat bullocks, weighing from four to five hundred pounds, hide included, were purchased at five dollars each, sheep two dollars.
I am perfectly satisfied that beef could be as well cured here on the farms, if proper precautions and good materials were used, as in other parts of the world. Individually I have proved it to the extent of one bullock. I think it would keep sound for two years; but from the wild state of the animals when dragged to the port, the blood is too much excited to allow of fair trial. Beef in these climates requires more sugar and nitre than in colder regions.
Monterey I found as much increased as San Francisco had fallen into ruin. It was still, however, very miserable, and wanting in the military air of 1827. The adobe or mud-brick battery remained, and had been newly bedaubed during the late ebullition of independence. There were guns it is true, (about seven,) but they were in a state infinitely more dangerous to those using them, than to those against whom they might have been used. An Englishman was found possessing sufficient courage to fire one at the crisis of the revolution. That gun decided the question!
Yet I find in the restrictions enjoined on poor Douglas that he was in honour bound "to desist from entering or taking plans of the fortifications!" which consisted of a mud wall of three sides, open in the rear, with breastwork about three feet in height; Avitli rotten platforms for seven guns, the discharge of which would annihilate their remains of carriages. The muzzles of one or two brass twenty-four pounders, very old and very handsome, are absent, and their vents might, upon an emergency, be used to load, provided it became necessary to make a second effort to discharge the shot, as I have once witnessed. The visit of La Venus had stripped the place of most of the supplies of which we stood in need.The governor was in daily expectation of being superseded by a Mexican appointment; but it was not quite certain that he would resign his honours without giving some trouble. The affairs of California were not yet finally arranged. Commissioners had gone to Mexico, via Acapulco, in order to come to some definitive arrangement.
On the 6th December we quitted Monterey for San Blas, whither I had already despatched the Starling to obtain our letters; the distance to Tepic, where our vice-consul, Mr. Baron, resides, causing a delay of forty-eight hours.
A very severe bilious fever confined me to my cot for some days, and prevented my examining the island of Guadalupe, and searching for others said to exist.
On the 11th December we passed close to Guadalupe, and thence explored a degree on the parallel where an island had been lately reported, but without success, thence southerly, to fall into the parallel of Shelvoes, Shelvocke's, or Shovel Island; steering easterly towards Cape San Lucas, until I had sufficiently determined its non-existence within thirty miles east or west of its assigned position.
The Venus also went over the same ground on nearly the same errand, and with like success.
On the 16th December we passed Cape San Lucas within about half a mile of the rocks, looking into the bay preparatory to a future examination, and passed on for Tres Marias, off which we perceived the Starling on the 18th of December.On the day following we landed on the Northern Maria, and obtained sights; but disliking the anchorage, stood away and anchored off the centre of George Island, where we procured wood, surveyed the bay, and fixed its position. We then quitted for San Blas.
There is nothing inviting on either of the Marias. In the rainy season water may flow, but from what I witnessed of the channels through which it must pass, they should be well cleansed by floods before it would be fit for consumption. What remained in the natural tanks was sulphureous; brackish, although far above the influence of the sea; and formed a strong infusion of decayed leaves.
By the tracks observed, turtle appeared to have visited the island lately, but none were seen or taken. Wood is plentiful, particularly a species of lignum vitae. Cedar of the coarse species used for canoes we met with, but none of fine grain.
Firs are probably in the mountains, as I found a cone in one of the water-courses. The other trees are similar to those found at San Blas.
The soil is chiefly composed of a sandy mud, similar to that discharged from volcanoes, and which in some cases assists in forming an amygdaloidal stratum, of which the cliffs and water-courses, especially on the northern island, are chiefly composed.
On George's Island the water-courses were of this nature, with large boulders of greenstone. On the eastern point a small delta of low land occurs, which has coral sand for its substratum, skinned over with a covering of mud and soil, on which rank grass luxuriates.
Fish appear to be numerous, particularly sharks; and the dead shells on the beach, including almost every known species in these seas, hold out a prospect of employment for the conchologist.
But the capricious character of the ocean about these islands renders visits at any time hazardous, as a few moments may imprison the naturalist for weeks. Ten years since, nearly to a day, I found landing on any part of these shores impracticable, although the weather previously had been fine.
Here Vancouver tried ineffectually for water, and I was induced, by the assertion of a master of a vessel belonging to San Blas, "that wells were sunk, and good water conveniently to be had," to make this examination. It is not improbable that if wells were sunk, water could be obtained; but is the result worth the trouble or risk?
On the 20th of December we anchored off San Blas, and found no letters; that dreadful damper after long-cherished expectation, and particularly on such a service as the present, where year after year fate may send them without a chance of reaching us.
- ↑ Boats with soldiers were sent under the direction of the padres to capture Indians and bring them to the missions, where they were made Christians nolens volens.