CONTENTS.
xi
VII. | |
IN THE LOGWOOD FORESTS. | |
Sleeping spoon-fashion. — A bolt for the coast. — The great mound of Oilam. — Izamal. — The start for the rancho. — "Muy temprano." — A Yucateco Refresco. — The lovely Aguada. — Rare birds. — The camp. — Logwood cutters. — Dinner-table etiquette. — "At your disposal, sir." — A quarrel. — Familiar Maya words. — Weighing the logwood, — Palo de Campeche. — Quail, deer, and turkeys. — The Indian with evil eyes. — The haunts of adders. — A walk at sunset. — Industrious women. — Toiling at the mills | 126 |
VIII. | |
NORTH COAST OF YUCATAN. | |
Trogons and parrots. — Wild hemp. — Puntas Arenas. — Sea birds by the thousand. — The Lagoon. — Spoonbills and flamingoes. — Ibis and heron. — Fish and coco-nuts. — Failure. — Cozumel and Isla Mujeres. — First landing of the Spaniards. — Important discovery. — The Brasero, or incense burner. — A wilderness of ruins. — Tulum. — Rio Lagartos. — A fall. — Puerto de Dilam. — Mangrove forests. — Excessive politeness. — El Viejo. — Timax again — The Medico and his patients. — The Correo. — Motul. — Generous Compañerios. — Merida | 139 |
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BOOK II. | |
CENTRAL AND SOUTHERN MEXICO. | |
IX. | |
PALENQUE AND THE PHANTOM CITY. | |
Farewell to Yucatan. — Why one should love the Yucatecos. — An honest people. — The Alexandre steamers — Delightful voyaging. — Campeche. — Aboriginal catacombs. — Champoton, or "Mala pelea." — Laguna de Terminos. — Unexplored territory. — Frontera. — The River Tabasco, or Grijalva. — San Juan Bautista. — Marina, the Tabascan Princess. — Palenque, the vast group of ruins. — The "Palenque Cross." — The ancient Xibalba. — Peten and Flores, land of the Itzaes. — The deified horse. — Tizimin, the white tapir. — The mysterious city. — An aboriginal centre of civilization | 155 |
X. | |
VERA CRUZ AND JALAPA. | |
River Coatzcoalcos. — Tehuantepec. — The Inter-oceanic Railroad. — Vera Cruz, a lovely city from the sea. — Isla delos Sactificios. — Castle of San Juan de Ulua. — Peak of Orizaba. — Mountain of the Star. — The Mole. — Zopilotes, or vultures. — Board of health. — The Plaza. — Tramways. — Sights often described. — Vomito, or yellow fever. — The customs officials. — Dutiable articles. — Vera Cruz, the great Gulf State. — here Cortes landed. — Jalapa, a refuge from heat and fever. — The mule-car. — The great Spanish highway. — Puente Nacional. — Santa Anna's hacienda. — Rinconada. — The ubiquitous engineer. — Cerro Gordo, a reminiscence of the American army. — The hamlet. — Gardens of Jalapa. — The mountain views. — Corn and coffee. — The bewitching Jalapeñas. — Jalap. — Vanilla. — Down the hills to the hot country | 173 |