Page:Travels in Mexico and life among the Mexicans.djvu/16

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CONTENTS.
XI.
FROM COAST TO CAPITAL.
The great Mexican Railway. — The Llanos. — Fire-flies. — Soledad. — Paso del Macho. — Chiquihuite. — Bridge of Atoyac. — Barrancas and ravines. — Cordova and the coffee district. — A diversion from the track of travel. — Details of coffee culture. — Introduction of the cinchona. — The coffee of Liberia, the West Indies, and Mexico. — Barranca of Metlac. — The tunnels. — The Valley of Orizaba. — Products of two zones. — Coffee and cane, grapes and mangos. — Orizaba, the "Joy of the Water." — Encinal. — The gorge of Infemillo. — The cross on the precipice. — La Joya, the Jewel. — Maltrata. — The region of pines. — The mountain's mouth. — Eight thousand feet above the coast. — Esperanza, the Mexican Hope. — The Great Plateau. — San Marcos. — Tlascala. — Huamantla. — Apizaco. — Soltepec, the highest point on the line. — Apam, the Pulque District. — The American Maguey. — Haciendas. — Otumba. — Valley of Mexico. — At the gates of the capital 194
XII
CITY OF MEXICO.
Adrift. — Hooper. — A country to suit all complexions. — A friend to the rescue The room en the roof-top. — Robbers. — The Mexican dwelling. — The Patio. — The Azotea. — Cortes again. — First entry into Mexico. — Expulsion. — Investment. — Capture. — The new city built on the old. — Plaza Mayor. — Aztec Teocalli. — The first Cathedral. — The Sagrario. — Recent exhumations. — A magnificent temple and its golden treasures. — A relic of Spanish dominion. — Golden lamps and statues. — Those days of old. — Descriptions by other writers. — City and suburban tramways. — In the Cathedral towers. — The Zocalo. — The Flower Market. — The National Palace. — Meteorological Observatory — The astronomer's Elysium. — A relic of royalty. — The Municipal Palace. — Sombreros and Sarapes. — The Alameda. — A view too vast for description. — The wall of mountains. — Lake Tezcoco. — Historic hills. — Physical facts confirm old chronicles. — The "enchanted city." — The causeways. — Floods. — The birds of the lakes. — The city in danger. — The Great Tajo of Nochistongo. — Imperfect drainage. — Filth and malaria 221
XIII.
A RAMBLE AROUND THE CITY.
Population of the City of Mexico. — Latitude and elevation. — Climate. — Seasons. — Divisions of time. — The siesta. — A noble charity, Monte Piedad. — Pawn-shops. — Mexican fop and his resources. — The Mineria, or School of Mines. — Mexican courtesy. — Calle San Francisco. — Hotel Iturbide. — The Escandon and porcelain house. — Convent of San Francisco. — Methodist mission work. — The great library. — Book-stalls. — Rare and ancient volumes. — Old houses. — Humboldt's house. — The great scientist's work in Mexico. — The Mint, Casa de Moneda. — A coinage reckoned by billions. — Amount coined up to 1883. — An honest dollar. — The Palace of the Inquisition. — A savor of heretics. — The hospitals. — Panteon (cemetery) of San Fernando. — An abode of illustrious men. — The irrepressible conflict. — Church of San Hypolito. — Leap of Alvarado. — Aqueduct of San Cosme. — American cemetery. — Tacuba and the tree of Noche Triste. — Virgin of Remedios 244