An Account of Corsica/Chapter 1
CHAPTER I.
Of the Situation, Extent, Air, Soil, and Productions, of Corsica.
CORSICA is an island of the Mediterranean sea, situated between the 41 and 43 degree of north latitude, and between the 8 and 10 degree of east longitude, reckoning from London. It hath on the north the Ligurian sea, and gulf of Genoa. On the east, the Tuscan sea; on the south, a strait of ten miles which separates it from Sardinia; and on the weft the Mediterranean. It is about 100 miles south of Genoa, and 80 southwest of Leghorn, from whence it can plainly be seen when the weather is clear. It is 150 miles in length, and from 40 to 50 in breadth, being broadest about the middle. It is reckoned 322 miles in circumference; but an exact measurement round it would extend to 500 miles, as it is edged with many promontories, and with a variety of bays.
Pliny the elder hath given us a short, but very accurate account of the geography of Corsica;
'In Ligustico mari est Corsica quam Graeci Cyrnon appellavere, sed Thusco proprior, a septenrione in meridiem projecta, longa passuum CL millia, lata majore ex parte L, circuitu CCCXXII, civitates habet XXXIII et colonias Marianam a Marjo deductam, Aleriam a dictatore Sylla[1].'
'In the Ligurian sea, but nearer to Tuscany than to Liguria, is Corsica, which the Greeks called Cyrnus. It extendeth from north to south, and is about 150 miles in length, for the most part 50 in breadth, and 322 in circumference. It hath 33 states and two colonies, Mariana founded by Marius, and Aleria founded by the dictator Sylla.’
Of these 33 states, not above five or fix can now be traced; and the colonies are only to be marked by their ruins. But the usual fidelity of Pliny is to be credited in this account. Pomponius Mela[2] describes the situation of Corsica, as does Ptolemy[3].
Seneca the philosopher hath left us two most horrid pictures of Corsica, very false indeed, but executed with uncommon strength of fancy and expression. Stoick as he was, of a grave and severe demeanour, he did not escape the Emperour's jealousy, but being accused as one of the many gallants with whom the profligate Julia had been guilty of adultery, he was banished to Corsica, where he remained for seven years; and where in the province of Capo Corso they still shew an old ruin called 'Il torre di Seneca, Seneca's Tower.' Here he composed his books De Consolatione to Polybius, and to his mother Helvia, with several other works; and here he indulged his fretted imagination in the following epigrams,
Corsica Phocaeo tellus habitata colono,
Corsica quae Graio nomine Cyrnus eras:
Corsica Sardinia brevior, porrectior Ilva;
Corsica pilcofis peria fluminibus:
Corsica terribilis quum primum incanduit aeftas;
Saevior, oftendit quum ferus ora canis:
Parce relegatis, hoc est, jam parce sepultis,
Vivorum cineri sit tua terra levis.
O sea-girt Corsica! whole rude domains,
First own'd the culture of Phocaean swains;
Cyrnus, since thus the Greeks thy isle express.
Greater than Ilva, than Sardinia less;
O Corsica! whose winding rivers feed,
Unnumber'd as their sands, the sinny breed:
O Corsica! whose raging heats dismay,
When first returning summer pours her ray;
Yet fiercer plagues thy scorching shores dispense.
When Sirius sheds his baneful influence:
Spare, spare the banish'd! spare, since such his doom,
A wretch, who living, seeks in thee a tomb!
Light lay thy earth, in pity to his pains.
Light lay thy earth upon his lad remains.
II.
Barbara praeruptis inclusa est Corsica saxis;
Horrida, desertis undique vasta locis.
Non poma autumnus, segetes non educat aestas;
Canaque Palladio munere bruma caret;
Umbrarum nullo ver est laetabile soetu,
Nullaque in insaufto nascitur herba solo:
Non panis, non haustus aquae, non ultimus ignis.
Hic sola haec duo funt, exful, et exfilium.
O! Corsica, whom rocks terrific bound.
Where nature spreads her wildest delarts round.
In vain revolving seasons cheer thy foil.
Nor rip'ning fruits, nor waving harvests smile:
Nor blooms the olive mid the winter drear;
The votive olive to Minerva dear.
See, spring returning, spreads her milder reign!
Yet shoots no herb, no verdure clothes the plain.
No cooling springs to quench the traveller's thirst
From thy parch'd hills in grateful murmurs burst;
Nor, hapless isle! thy barren shores around.
Is wholesome food, fair Ceres' bounty, found.
Nor ev'n the last sad gift, the wretched claim,
The pile funereal, and the sacred flame.
Nought here, alas! surrounding seas enclose.
Nought but an exile, and an exile's woes.
He hath also vented his spleen against the place of his exile, in the same extravagant manner, in his books De Consolatione. But we must consider, that notwithstanding all the boasted firmness of Seneca, his mind was then clouded with melancholy, and every object around him appeared in rueful colours.
Corsica is, in reality, a most agreeable island. It had from the ancient Greeks the name of Kαλλιςη, Callista, on account of its beauty; and we may believe it was held in considerable estimation, since Callimachus places it next to his favourite Delus,
Η δ' ὄπιθεν Φοινίσσα μετ' ἴχτια Κύρνος ὀπηδεῖ
Οὐκ ὀνοτήCallim. Hymn, in Del. 1. 19.
Next in the rank, Phoenician Cyrnus came,
A fruitful isle, of no ignoble name.
It is charmingly situated in the Mediterranean, from whence continual breezes fan and cool it in summer, and the surrounding body of water keeps it warm in winter, so that it is one of the most temperate countries in that quarter of Europe. Its air is fresh and healthful, except in one or two places, which are moist, and where the air, especially in summer, is suffocating and sickly; but in general, the Corsicans breathe a pure atmosphere, which is also keen enough to brace their fibres more than one would expect under so warm a sun.
Corsica has indeed been pretty generally represented as unwholesome, which, I suppose, has been owing to the bad report given of it by the Romans, who established their colonies at Aleria and Mariana, which from their damp situation, occasioned a great death among the inhabitants, and accordingly these colonies soon went to ruin. But all the interiour parts of the Island have very good air.
Corsica is remarkably well furnished with good harbours, so that we may apply to it what Florus says of the Campania, 'Nihil hospitalius mari[4]. Nothing more hospitable to the sea.' It has on the north Centuri. On the west San Fiorenzo, Isola Rossa, Calvi, Ajaccio. On the South it has Bonifaccio. And on the east Porto Vecchio, Bastia, and Macinajo. Of each of these I shall give some account.
Centuri, though at present but a small harbour, may be greatly enlarged, as its situation is very convenient.
San Fiorenzo is an extensive gulf. It runs about fifteen miles up into the country, and is about five miles across, and many fathom deep. The gulf itself hath often a violent surge, being exposed to the westerly winds; but there are several creeks and bays, particularly on the south side of it, which are quite secure. There is a bay under the tower of Fornali, about two miles from San Fiorenzo, which is highly esteemed, and where vessels of considerable burden may be safely stationed.
Isola Rossa is but a little harbour; but has a considerable depth of water, and is defended by a small island against the westerly winds. They talk of erecting a mole to lock it in on every quarter. It is at present one of the principal ports for Commerce in the possession of the Corsicans.
Calvi[5] is a large and excellent harbour. Cluverius calls it 'Celeberrimus insulae portus[6], The most famous port of this island.' The only objection I ever heard made to it, was by a French Gentleman, who told me, that the bottom of it was full of sharp rocks, which were apt to cut the cables of ships which entered it: and he instanced one of the transports, which had landed some of the French troops in the year 1764. He however was under a mistake; for I have been at pains to enquire very particularly concerning this, and am informed from the best authority, that there is nothing to fear from rocks at Calvi, and that the French transport which suffered a little there, happened to be run foul of, by some of the rest, which was the occasion of any damage it sustained.
Ajaccio is a wide and commodious harbour, with a good mole, and perfectly safe. It wants only to have a small rock in front of the mole removed, which might be done at no great charge.
Corsica hath also in this quarter several smaller havens, which are useful for the reception of little vessels.
Bonifaccio is an useful harbour, much frequented since the oldest times, and very fit for trade.
Bastia is not a port of the first consideration, as ships of war cannot enter it. But it hath a mole for the convenience of small vessels, for which it is very well fitted. The islands of Gorgona, Capraja, and Ilva, or the Elbe, are placed at no great distance in the sea which rolls between the east coast of Corsica and Tuscany, with the Pope's dominions; so that small vessels can never be at a loss for protection, should any sudden storm come upon them, as they can run into any of these islands.
Macinajo is not one of the principal harbours in Corsica, though it is very safe and commodious for vessels of a light construction. I mention Macinajo, because it was from thence that the expedition set sail against Capraja, as will be afterwards seen.
Diodorus Siculus celebrates Corsica for the excellency of its harbours:Αὔτη δὲ ἡ νῆσος εὐπρόσορμιςος οὗσα, κάλλιςον ἔχει λιμένα τὸν ὀνομάζομενον Συρακσιονοῦσιον[7], 'The island being of very easy access, has a most beautiful port, called the Syracusian'. This, which was anciently called the Syracusian, has now the name of Porto Vecchio; of which it is proper to take particular notice.
Porto Vecchio is a spacious haven, capable of containing a very large fleet. It is five miles long, above a mile and a half broad, has a great depth of water, and a good bottom, and being landlocked on every side, is well sheltered from storms. I may add, that nature has placed a high and rocky mountain like a stately column to point it out at a great distance. In short, Porto Vecchio may vie with the most distinguished harbours in Europe.
The only objection to it, is the badnecs of its air, occasioned by the marshy grounds which lie in its neighbourhood. But this disadvantage may be remedied, as has been done at Leghorn.
'The country about Leghorn was formerly a vile morass or rather quagmire, the noxious steams of which rendered the air unwholesome; but by the skill and pains of an Englishman, Sir Robert Dudley, son to Queen Elizabeth's potent favourite the Earl of Leicester, the soil was rendered habitable, the air much less unwholesome, and the port improved, so as to become the best in Italy[8].'
From this account of the harbours of Corsica, it will appear of how great consequence an alliance with this island might be to any of the maritime powers of Europe. For, a fleet stationed there might command the navigation of Genoa, Tuscany, and the ecclesiastical state, that between Spain and Naples, and a good share of that to the Levant; not to mention its influence over that of Sardinia. And it may be material to observe, that vessels stationed in the ports of Corsica might be formidable to France, as the western side of the island is directly opposite to the extensive coast: of Provence, on which a descent might be made with cruisers in a very short time.
The northern point of Corsica, called Capo Corso[9], is about 30 miles long, very mountainous and rocky, but covered with vines and olives. There are, in several parts of the island, but particularly in Capo Corso, a great many ancient towers, built about three or four hundred years ago, to defend the inhabitants against the incursions of the Turks and other pirates. There is there a little village called Tomino, strong by situation. The Genoese have made several attacks upon it during the late troubles, but were never able to carry it. The inhabitants are very deservedly proud of this. They shew, with particular triumph, a shell which the enemy threw into their village, to oblige them to surrender. They have placed it in a niche on the outside of their church, to serve as a memorial of their deliverance, and to inspire them with greater zeal and devotion when they go to divine worship.
From Tomino east to Bastia, is about 26 miles of a country much diversified with hills, and abounding in springs. On the coast are a number of poor fishing towns, and a little up the country, there are several villages or hamlets prettily situated.
Bastia has of a long time been reckoned the capital of Corsica. It was here that the Genoese held the seat of their sovereign power: and indeed Bastia is still the largest town in the island. It has a stately appearance from the sea, being built, on the declivity of a hill; though upon entering the town, one is a good deal disappointed; for the houses are in general ill built, and the streets narrow, and from the situation of the town, are necessarily very steep. There are however several pretty good buildings here. It hath a castle, which commands the town and harbour, which, though but a sorry fortification at present, is capable of being made a place of considerable strength, as it hath a range of hills behind it, on which little redoubts might be erected; and with these, and a few substantial outworks towards the sea, it might stand a pretty long siege. The castle is properly on a separate territory, called terra nuova, the New Land, as is also the cathedral of Bastia, which has nothing very remarkable. It belongs to the bishoprick of Mariana.
The church of St. John in this city, by no means an inelegant building, belongs to the Jesuits, who have here a college. Their garden is finely situated, large, and well laid out. This they owe in a great measure to the French, who have been stationed in Corsica at different times. From them the inhabitants have learned much of what they know of the arts and conveniences of life. There is here a convent of Lazarists or missionaries, a vast and magnificent house, almost overhanging the sea. The convent of the Franciscans, and that of the Capuchins, are situated on the rising grounds behind Bastia. The last stands in a beautiful exposure, and has really a very pretty front.
From Bastia south to beyond Aleria, is one continued plain, between 50 and 60 miles in length, proper for raising all forts of grain, as well as for pasturage.
I fay nothing of the ruins of Mariana and Aleria, the two Roman colonies which stood on this plain; for as Corsica was much disregarded by the Romans, they did not think it worthy of having any of their taste and magnificence employed in it: so there are no vestiges of ancient grandeur. As however, even the dregs of the Romans could not be without some skill in the arts, several antiques, such as rings, and seals with engravings on precious stones have been found here, and sometimes pretty good ones. The ruins of an old town called Nicea, said to be built by the Etruscans, are still to be seen on this plain, but without any thing remarkable.
Beyond Aleria the country rises into small hills, proper for vines, olives, mulberry trees, and many of them for corn. It is traversed by some ridges of mountains, upon which, not far from Porto Vecchio, are great numbers of very fine oaks, the bell being to be found here, and at Campoloro. A rich waved country with some few interruptions, reaches along the east and south coasts to Bonifaccio, which is a pretty considerable town, well inhabited, and strongly fortified; and from thence is continued to the plain of Ajaccio.
Ajaccio is the prettiest town in Corsica. It hath many very handsome streets, and beautiful walks; a citadel, and a palace for the Genoese governour. The inhabitants of this town are the genteelest people in the island, having had a good deal of intercourse with the French. In Ajaccio are the remains of a colony of Greeks settled in Corsica, of which colony a particular account shall be given in the next chapter.
From the plain of Ajaccio, after passing some more ridges, you advance along the west shore to the provinces of Balagna and Nebbio, which are very rich, and afford an agreeable prospect, particularly Balagna, which may be called the garden of Corsica, being highly favoured by nature, and having also had in a superiour degree the advantages of cultivation.
You next arrive at San Fiorenzo, which is but an inconsiderable place, and of no great strength. About a quarter of a mile to the southward of the town, are some low marshy grounds, which make San Fiorenzo so sickly, that few people choose to inhabit it, and the garrison there must be changed every month.
On the northern shore of the gulf, are two or three villages, of which the principal is Nonza. This is properly the key of Capo Corso; because from the cape into the interiour parts of the island on the western side, there is only one pass, and that leads through this place. Nonza is a little village, on a high rock, on the extreme pinnacle of which, some hundred fathoms above the gulf, and directly perpendicular, stands a tower or small fortress, which commands the avenue to it. Nonza is literally what Cicero calls Ithaca, 'In asperrimis faxulis tanquam nidulum affixam[10], Stuck on the rudest cliffs like a little nest.' After this, the cape begins, which finishes at Ersa.
I have thus reviewed the Corsican harbours, and travelled round the skirts of the country, along its shores.
Diodorus Siculus describes Corsica as an extensive island, very mountainous, abounding in large forests, and watered with many rivulets: Η δὲ ὅλκ νήσος εὐμεγέθης οὖσα, πολλὴν τῆς χώρας ὀρεινὴν ἔχει πεπυκασμένην δρυμοῖς συνεχέσι καὶ ποταμοῖς διαῤῥεομένην μικροῖς[11].
Indeed the interiour parts of the island are in general mountainous, though interspersed with fruitful valleys; but have a peculiar grand appearance, and inspire one with the genius of the place; with that undaunted and inflexible spirit, which will not bow to oppression. As Homer says of Ithaca:
Τρηχὲὶ ἀλλ' ἀγαθή κουροτρόφος.
Strong are her sons, tho' rocky are her shores.
The great division of Corsica, is into the di qua, and the di la dei monti. The country on this side and the country on the other side of the mountains; reckoning from Bastia. By the mountains is understood, that great range of them which rises beyond Aleria, and stretches across the island, intersecting it however by no mean, equally; for, the country di qua is a third more than that di la. Another old division of this island was, to suppose a line drawn from Porto Vecchio, to the gulf of San Fiorenzo; and the division upon the east, was called banda di dentro, The side within; and that on the west, was called banda di fuori, The side without. I never could learn the meaning of this division farther, than that, I suppofe, those who inhabited Bastia and the plain of Aleria, looked upon themselves as the most civilized; and so were for calling those on the opposite side of the island to them 'forrestieri, foreigners.'
The next division is into provinces, of which there are nine; for although a great part of this country long went under the denomination of 'feudos, feus,' and is still called so in the maps, the jurisdiction of the signors is now gradually wearing out, and will soon be sunk into the general power of the state.
Another division of Corsica is into pieves. A Pieve is properly an ecclesiastical appointment, containing a certain number of parishes, over which is placed a pievano, who superintends the the priests, and draws a certain part of the tithes. But this division is as much used for civil affairs, as for those of the church.
There are large traces of uninhabited land in Corsica, mostly covered with woods; to some parts of which the peasants resort in summer to feed their cattle, and to gather chestnuts, making little sheds for themselves to lie under. There is hardly such a thing as a detached farm-house to be seen in the island, like what are scattered every where over Great Britain; for, the Corsicans gather together in little villages, which they call by corruption 'paeses, countries.' I remember when I was first told in Corsica, that I should travel a great many miles 'Senza veder un paese, Without seeing a country,' I could not conceive what they meant. The Corsicans are in greater safety, and have more society with each other by thus living in villages; which is much the custom in the cantons of Switzerland, and some parts of Germany; as it was anciently among all nations.
The Corsican villages are frequently built upon the very summits of their mountains, on craggy cliffs of so stupendous a height, that the houses can hardly be distinguished during the day; but at night, when the shepherds kindle their fires, the reflection of such a variety of lights, makes these aerial villages have a most picturesque and pleasing appearance.
In the center of the island stands Corte, which is properly its capital, and will undoubtedly be one day a city of eminence. Here is the General's palace; and here is the supreme feat of justice, where the executive power constantly resides, and where the legislature is annually assembled; and here also is the university, which in time may become a distinguished feat of learning, though I must not allow my enthusiasm to indulge itself in too eager hopes of seeing Corsica an Athens, as well as a Thebes.
Corte is situated part at the foot, and part on the declivity of a rock, in a plain surrounded with prodigious high mountains, and at the conflux of two rivers, the Tavignano and Restonica. It hath a great deal of rich country about it, and a wonderful natural strength, being hemmed in by almost impassable mountains and narrow defiles, which may be defended with a handful of men, against very large armies.
Upon a point of the rock, prominent above the rest, and on every side perpendicular, stands the castle or citadel. It is at the back of the town, and is almost impregnable; there being only one winding passage to climb up to it, and that not capable of admitting more than two persons abreast. Thuanus thus describes it: 'Curiae arx faxo sere undique praempto imposita[12], The castle of Corte placed upon a rock, broken and ragged almost on every side.' In the year 1554, it was in possession of the French. [13] A Capitaine la Chambre betrayed it, for which he was afterwards hanged at Marseilles. The same historian inform us, that after the Corsicans had thus recovered the citadel of Corte, it stood a siege by the French general de Thermes, from August to October, and that it was a scarcity of water, which at last occasioned its surrender.
In the plain, on the north of Corte, there is a convent of Capuchins, and on the side of the hill, to the south of the City, there is a convent of Franciscans. Here the General lived while his palace was repairing; and here all strangers of respect are lodged. From this convent, one has the best view of the city of Corte.
The learned and ingenious Messieurs Hervey and Burnaby, when they were at this convent, were greatly struck with the romantick appearance of Corte.
'We could scarce help fancying ourselves at Lacedemon, or some other ancient Grecian City. Livy speaking of Heraclea, has given a description of it very like Corte: 'Sita est Heraclea in radicibus Aetae montis, ipsa in Campo, arcem imminentem loco alto et undique praecipiti habet. Lib. lxxxvi. cap. 22. Heraclea is situated at the foot of mount Aeta; itself on a plain, but hanging over it, is a citadel, on a cliff very high and steep on every side.’ One would think he was speaking of the very place. At Lacedemon indeed, as appears from Pausanias, there was no Acropolis or citadel, and they only called the highest point or eminence in the city by that name; from its answering probably the same purpose to them, as the Acropolis did to the other cities of Greece, it being more difficult of access to an enemy, and admitting of an easier defence.Λακεαιμονίοις δὲ ἡ ἀκρόπολις μέν ες ὕψος περιφάνες ἐξιοχούσα οὐκ ἔστι, καθὰ δη Θηζαίοις τε ἡ Καδμεία, καὶ ἡ Λάρισσα Αργείοις, ὄντων δὲ ἐν ῇ πὸλει λόφον καὶ ἄλλων τὸ μάλιστα ἐς μετέωρον ἀνήκον ὀνομάζουςιν ἀκρόπολιν, ἐνταῦθα Αθῆνας ἵερον πεποιῆται Pausan. lib. iii. cap. 17. The Lacedemonians have no citadel built upon a high place, like Cadmaea of the Thebans, or Larissa of the Argives. But as there are in the city many hills, they give the most elevated of them the name of the citadel. Upon this hill is a temple to Minerva.' And Livy, speaking of its being besieged by Flaminius, observes nearly the same thing: 'Altiora loca et difficiliora aditu stationibus armatorum, pro munimento objectis tutabantur. lib. xxxiv. cap. 38. The higher places, and those more difficult of access, were defended by detachments of soldiers which served instead of fortifications.' 'According to the institution of Lycurgus, the Spartans were not allowed to have any fortifications; but were to rely for their defence upon their own valour. Towards the decline of the Grecian liberty however, they erected walls in the plainer and more open avenues; Locis patentibus plerisque objecerunt murum, says Livy. The remainder was still confided to the valour of its citizens. However, notwithstanding this, there was sufficient likeness to form a comparison between Corte and Lacedemon; especially as the Acropolis was built upon; the temple of Minerva being placed there. We could not help imagining, that yonder was the Taygetus, here the Eurotas; and what made the comparison more striking, was the resemblance, we fancied, between Lycurgus and Paoli[14].'
Corsica is extremely well watered. Its principal lakes, are those of Ino and Crena, about two miles from each other; both situated on the highest mountain in the island, called by the ancients Mons Aureus, and now Gradaccio or Monte Rotondo. It is of an amazing height, and may equal any of the Alps. From the top of it there is a most extensive view of all Corsica, of the seas and of Sardinia, with distant prospects of Italy and France; while the Mediterranean and many of its little isles are also under the eye. But people seldom go to take this view; for the upper part of the monntain is almost a perpendicular rock, so that a man must climb two miles with the help of his hands and knees; and for the greatest part of the year, this immense mountain is covered with snow. These two lakes of Ino and Crena, are both of considerable extent.
In the plain of Aleria, near to Mariana, is a lake called Chiurlina or Biguglia, which is pretty large, and communicates with the sea; and near to Aleria, is a lake called Il Stagno di Diana, which also communicates with the sea; and it is remarkable, that in summer, when the heat of the sun has exhaled part of the water, and the rest of it is absorbed by the sandy bottom, there remains a kind of natural salt, which the Corsicans find very good, and constantly make use of.
The rivers of Corsica are, the Golo, a large and beautiful river, which takes its rise from the lake of Ino, traverses several provinces, and after a course of above seventy miles, empties itself into the sea, just by the ancient city of Mariana. The Tavignano, also a considerable river, which takes its rise from the lake of Crena, and after traversing a long tract of rude country, empties itself into the sea, just bu the ancient city of Aleria. The Restonica, which, though but a small river, is famous in Corsica, on account of its particular qualities. Its water is clear as chrystal, and most agreeable to drink; so that Seneca certainly never saw the Restonica, otherwise he would never have said, that Corsica had not 'haustus aquae, a draught of water.' The Restonica is said to be of a mineral nature, and very wholesome. It hath a virtue of whitening every thing. The stones in its channel are like as many pieces of chalk. I remember on the road between Rome and Naples, a run from a sulphureous spring, which had something of the same quality, only it did not give so very white a tincture as that of the Restonica, which will make iron look almost like silver, and never rust. The Corsicans frequently dip the barrels and locks of their guns in it.
There are several other rivers, of which I shall not give a particular description; the Prunella, Fiumorbo, Gravonne, Valinco, Talavo, Liamone; fine poetical names. There are also a great many rivulets, which serve to enrich the country, and keep it constantly fresh.
It hath been said, that with proper care and expence, some of the Corsican rivers might be rendered navigable; but this, I think, would be a very idle project; for their courses are exceedingly rapid, and when there has been a great deal of rain, the torrents which tumble from the mountains often bring down large fragments of rock, which would dash in pieces any vessels that they should encounter.
There are many mineral springs, both of the hot and cold kind, in different parts of the island, which the inhabitants of the country find to be very efficacious for the cure of most distempers; and people of skill, particularly some French physicians have examined them by, a chymical analysis, and approved of them.
Corsica is extremely well supplied with fish. I never indeed could hear of any other fish in their rivers or fresh water lakes, except trout and eel. These however are found in great plenty, very fat, and of an uncommon size.
But the rich treasure of fish for Corsica, is in its sea; for on all its coasts, there is the greatest variety of all the best kinds, and in particular a fort of ton or sturgeon, and the small fish called Sardinas, which is of an exquisite taste. And in several places, the Corsicans have beds of oysters, remarkably large; of which they have not only a sufficiency for their own consumption, but export a great many to Italy.
From the earliest times, Corsica has been famous for its excellent fish. Juvenal, when satyrising the excessive luxury of the Romans in his time, who brought every delicacy from the greatest distance, says,
Mullus erit domini qiiem misit Corfica.
A precious mullet from the Corsick seas.
Nor less the master's pamper'd taste can please.
And since I am talking of the productions of the Corsican sea, I may observe, that they here fish great quantities of coral, of all the three kinds, white, red and black. But I shall say more of this, when I come to the commerce of Corsica.
Corsica hath as great a variety of animals as most countries. The horses here, are in general of a very small breed. Procopius in his wars of the Goths, says, they run about in herds, and were little bigger than sheep[15]. They are, however, remarkably lively, and very hardy, somewhat of the nature of Welch ponies, or of the little horses led shelties, which are found in the highlands and islands of Scotland; though I have seen Corsican horses of a very good size. The asses and mules here, are also small, but very strong and wonderfully agile in scrambling along the deep rocky mountains; for there are hardly any made roads in the island. My worthy friend Sir Alexander Dick, whole publick spirit in promoting good roads in an approved age, is well known to all his countrymen, observed that this has been no loss to the Corsicans during the time that they have been employed only in defending themselves in a state of natural freedom. Had their country been open and accessible, they had been easily subdued by regular troops. It was in a good measure owing to her rugged hills, that ancient Scotland preserved her independency.
The black cattle are larger in proportion than the horses; but the greatest part of the island is not very proper pasture for them; so in general, they do not give much milk, and their beef is lean and tough. There is not so great occasion for milk in Corsica, as they make no butter, oil supplying its place, as in Italy, and most warm countries. They however make a good deal of cheese in some pieves.
There are here a vast number of goats, which browse upon the wild hills, and put one in mind of Virgil's Bucolicks, where mention is so often made of this animal. Sheep are also very plentiful, and have fine feeding; so that their mutton is as sweet and juicy as one could desire, and attones for the badness of the beef.
The Corsican sheep are generally black, or of a dusky colour; a white sheep being here and there to be met with in a flock, as black ones are amongst our sheep. The wool is coarse and hairy, which the people of the country impute to their sheep being of a mongrel race. They have had thoughts of helping this, by importing a good breed from England or Spain. But I have been told by the breeders of sheep, that the quality of wool is not so much owing to the kind of sheep, as to the nature of their pasture; for those sheep, who bear very rough fleeces when upon one farm, will, when put upon another of a different soil, bear fleeces exceedingly fine. It is very common here, for sheep to have more horns than two: many of them have six.
The forests of this island abound in deer. And there is here a curious animal, called a Muffoli. It resembles a stag, but has horns like a ram, and a skin uncommonly hard. It is very wild, and lives on the highest mountains, where it can hardly be approached, it is so nimble. It will jump from rock to rock, at the distance of many feet, and if hard chaced to the extremity of a cliff, from whence it can reach no other, it will throw itself over, and with surprising agility pitch upon its horns, without receiving any hurt. Yet when these creatures are taken young, they are very easily tamed. M. de Marboeuf, the French commander at the time I was in Corsica, had then one of them; and there are now two of them at Shugborough in Staffordshire, the feat of Mr. Anson, who has a rich assemblage of what is curious in nature, as well as of what is elegant in art.
The Corsican animals in general, appeared wild to strangers, Polybius gives us a reason for it: Δοκεῖ γε μὴν πάντ’ εἶναι τὰ ζῶα κατὰ τῆν νῆσον ἄγρια διὰ τοιαύτην αἰτίαν. Οὐ δυνάνται κατὰ τὰς νομὰς συνακολουθεῖν οἱ ποιμένες τοῖς θρέμμασι, διὰ τὸ σύνδενδρον ϗ̀ κρημνώδη ϗ̀ τραχεῖαν εἶναι τῆν νῆσον [16]. 'All the animals in the island appear to be wild, on this account, that it is so rude and steep, and so thick set with trees, that the shepherds are not able to follow their flocks.' The wild boar is found here in great plenty. Indeed their swine, which are very numerous, have all a mixture of the wild breed, and being fed on chestnuts, they are agreeable food.
The Corsicans are very fond of the diversion of hunting the wild boar, for which there is here a race of dogs, particulary excellent. They have smooth hair, and are something between a mastiff, and a strong shepherd's dog. They are large, and exceedingly fierce; but when once they have taken an attachment, they are very faithful to their master, watch him night and day, and are most undaunted in his defence.
Procopius [17] tells us, that there were in Corsica, apes wonderfully resembling men; and indeed, this island, and all that quarter of Europe before it was well inhabited, must on account of its vicinity to Africa, have swarmed with apes. Of these, however, there are at present no remains; which is a proof, that different species of animals migrate from one country to another, and when their race wears out in a particular part of the globe, it may be very numerous somewhere else. Certain it is, that in many countries, the race of several animals, well known there in ancient times, is totally extinguished. But I am not inclined to believe that our Creatour allows any of the various creatures which his almighty hand hath formed, to be absolutely annihilated.
There are hares enough in Corsica, but no rabbits; though Polybius, when talking of the animals of this inland, fays there are rabbits, and is very minute as to their form and qualities; saying, that at a distance, one would take them to be little hares, but when they are caught, a great difference is perceived, both in their appearance and taste. There are here no wolves, nor any of the larger wild beasts, unless foxes can be reckoned so, which are here indeed extremely large and ravenous. It is said, they not only destroy sheep, but have been known to devour even foals.
There is also a variety of birds in Corsica; the eagle, the vulture, wood-pidgeon, turtle, thrush, blackbird, and many of the smaller species; and plenty of game, as partridges, woodcocks, snipes, and water-fowl in the lakes. The poor thrushes and blackbirds too, must be reckoned as part of the game, for they are very numerous; and from there being a great quantity of the arbutus fruit in the island, they are exceedingly fat, and are esteemed a particular delicacy. It is barbarous to destroy, for the mere luxury of the table, birds which make such fine musick; surely their melody affords more enjoyment, than what can be had from eating them. They are, however, a very common dish in the southern countries, particularly in France.
In general, it may be observed that this island is so privileged by nature, that there is no poisonous animal in it. For although there are some scorpions, their bite carries no venom. The creature in Corsica, which approaches nearest to a poisonous animal is a spider, of an extraordinary size. Its bite will irritate, and inflame to a great degree, and the swelling which it occasions, is very alarming to one unacquainted with it; but it soon goes away, and no bad consequences follow, more than from the stinging of our bees. This spider, has by some been mistaken for the famous tarantula of the kingdom of Naples.
Trees grow remarkably well in Corsica. There is here almost every fort of sorell trees, but it is principally adorned with pines of different kinds, oaks, and chestnut trees. All of these are to be found of a great size; some of the pines in particular, are exceedingly lofty, and the chestnut tree grows to a prodigious bigness.
There are extensive forests in different places. That of Yico is most remarkable. There is in Corsica, timber sufficient to maintain a very large fleet, and the timber here, is much harder than one would expect in so southern a latitude, owing to the rocky foil of the country, to the perpetual currents of fresh air through its valleys, and to the temperature that proceeds from some of its mountains being half of the year in snow; and this is also one great cause of the salubrity of the climate, in which Corsica has much the advantage of Sardinia.
The Ilex, or ever-green oak, is very common here, and gives the country a cheerful look even in the depth of winter. The lemon, the orange, the fig and the almond trees, are also frequent. There are, however, few walnut trees, and the apple, pear, plumb and cherry are not remarkably good, which is probably owing to no care being taken of them. Corsica has the pomegranate in great perfection, also the Indian fig and the aloe; which last is said to flower here, as well as in the East.
The Corsican mountains are covered with the arbutus or strawberry tree, which gives a rich glowing appearance as far as the eye can reach. Indeed the island is very like the country which Virgil describes as the feat of rural felicity:
Glande fues laeti redeunt, dant arbuta sylvae:
Et varios ponit foetus autumnus et alte
Witis in apricis coquitur vindemia faxis.
On fatning mast, the swine well pleas'd, are fed;
And every wood with arbutus is red.
Benignant autumn smiling on the fields.
All various fruits in rich abundance yields;
While ev'ry rocky mountain vines displays,
Whose grapes are mellow'd by the fun's warm rays.
The mulberry grows well here, and is not so much in danger from blights and thunderstorms as in Italy, and the south of France; so that whenever Corsica enjoys tranquillity, it may have abundance of silk. We must not omit the laurel, to which Corsica has surely a very good claim. The box tree is a very common plant here. In most countries it is dwarfish, and generally used only for hedges; but it grows to a good size in Corsica, and may be reckoned a timber tree. Bochart[18] has very ingeniously shewn, that the benches of the Tyrian ships, which according to the common translation of Ezechiel, chap, xxvii. ver. 6. are said to have been made of ivory brought out of the isles of Chittim, were most probably made of Corsican boxwood.
Theophrastus in his history of plants expatiates on the wonderful size of the Corsican trees; to which, he says, the pines of Latium were nothing at all. He also says, the trees were immensely thick here; his expression is very strong: Καì ὅλως πᾶσαν τὴν νῆσον δασεῖαν ϗ̀ ὥσπερ ἡγριωμένην τῇ ὕλη[19]. 'The whole island seemed crouded and savage with woods.' He relates a strange tradition, that the Romans, who were struck with the vastness of these woods, built here a prodigious large ship, which carried no less than fifty sails, but was lost in the ocean[20]. This authour gives another ancient testimony to the goodness of the climate, soil, and air of the island: Κύρνος μὲν οὖν εἴτε διὰ τὴν ἄνεσιν, εἴτε ϗ̀ τòν ἄερα πολὺ διαφέρει τῶν ἄλλων[21] 'Corsica therefore, whether in respect of its temperate climate[22], or in respect of its soil, or of its air, greatly excelleth other countries.'
The different kinds of grain in Corsica, are wheat, barley, rye, and millet; all of which grow extremely well in several parts of the country. There are no oats here, as indeed hardly ever in any of the southern countries. They give their horses and mules barley. The millet is excellent in Corsica, and when mixed with rye, makes a wholesome bread, of which the peasants are very fond. Chestnuts may be reckoned a sort of grain in Corsica; for they answer all the purposes of it. The Corsicans eat them when roasted by way of bread. They even have them ground into flour, and of that they make very good cakes.
There is a vast quantity of honey produced in Corsica; for the island has from the earliest times been remarkable for its swarms of bees. When it was subject to the Romans, a tribute was imposed upon it of no less than two hundred thousand pounds of wax yearly[23]. Indeed the laurel, the almond tree, and the myrtle, in the flowers of which, the bees find so much sweetness, are very common here; and the hills are all covered with wild thyme, and other fragrant herbs. Yet its honey hath always been accounted bitter, by reason of the boxwood and yew, as Diodorus[24] and Pliny[25] observe; which make Virgil's Lycidas wish
Sic tua Cyrnaeas fugiant examina taxos.
So may thy bees refuse
The baneful juices of Cyrnaean yews.
Audet facundo qui carmina mittere Nervae,
Hyblaeis apibus Corsica mella dabit.
To tuneful Nerva, who would verses send.
May Corsick honey give to Hybla's bees.
Many people think the bitterness which is in the Corsican honey very agreeable. The reason which Pliny assigns for the bitterness of the honey, he also assigns for the excellence of the wax. Having mentioned the Punick, the Pontick, and the Cretan, he says, 'Post has Corsica (cera) quoniam ex buxo sit habere quandam vim medicaminis putatur[26]. After these, the Corsican wax, because it is made from the box tree, is reckoned to have a certain medicinal virtue.'
There are in Corsica, a great many mines of lead, copper, iron, and silver. Near to San Fiorenzo is a very rich silver mine, yielding above the value of 5l. sterling out of every 100 lib. weight of ore. The Corsican iron is remarkably good, having a toughness nearly equal to that of the prepared iron of Spain, famous over all the world. It is said that the true Spanish barrels are made of iron which has been worn and beaten for a long time in heads of nails in the shoes of the mules, who travel with a flow and incessant pace along the hard roads. But a very small proportion of the great quantity of Spanish barrels, which are fold in all parts of Europe, can have this advantage. The metal of the Corsican barrels is little inferiour to that of the generality of Spanish ones, and they begin to make them very well.
An allusion has been drawn from the iron mines, and the name of Corsica, to the character of its inhabitants. Hieronymus de Marinis, a Genoese, who writes on the dominion and government of the republick, says of this island: 'Terrae viscera ferri fodinis affluunt, naturae cum ipso Corsicae nomine in uno conspirantis praejudicio, Corsi enim corde funt ferreo, adeoque ad sicam armaque prono[27]. The bowels of the earth abound in mines of iron; nature conspiring, by a fort of prejudice, to form a similarity between the name[28] of Corsica and the temper of the people; for the Corsicans have hearts of iron, and are therefore prone to arms and the sword.' The Marquis D'Argens[29] applies to Corsica these lines of Crebillon: La nature maratre en ces afreux climats,
Produisoit au lieu d'or du fer et des foldats.
In that rude isle, instead of golden ore.
Nature, to aid the genius of the place,
On her high hills the massy iron bore,
And bade her sons still rise a hardy race.
I may add
And virtue springing from the iron soil.
There are also mines of allum, and of saltpetre, in several parts of Corsica.
There is here a kind of granite, extremely hard, some of it approaching in quality to the oriental granite, which was so famous at Rome, and of which such noble columns are still remaining, said to have been brought from Egypt. I fear it would be extravagant to conjecture, that some of these columns may have been the produce of Corsica; for, besides the perfection of the hieroglyphicks, which prove them to have been in Egypt, I question if such large pieces of granite could be raised in Corsica. There is here likewise porphyry, and a great variety of jasper. The magnificent chapel of the grand duke of Tuscany, at Florence, is finished with Corsican jasper, with which its inside is elegantly incrusted, and has a most beautiful appearance.
On the borders of the lake of Ino, they find pieces of rock crystal, very clear, and with five sides, as if they had been cut by a lapidary. They find some of it too in the mountains of Istria. It is so hard, that it strikes fire; and the Corsicans frequently use it for flint to their fusils.
Near to Ballia, there is found a fort of mineral, called by the country people, petra quadrata, because it is always found in little square bits. It has much about the hardness of marble, has a colour like iron-ore, and weighs like lead. The Corsicans ascribe certain mystical virtues to this stone, as appears from an old monkish distich made in its praise:
Petrae quadratae duro de marmore natae,
Innumeras dotes quis numerare potest!
Of the square stone of marble grown.
The virtues fell, what man can tell!
From the description of Corsica, which I have now given, it will appear to be a country of considerable importance. According to Mr. Templeman's Tables, in his New Survey of the Globe, the island contains 2520 square miles. It hath a number of good harbours. Its air is excellent, and its productions rich and various.
I shall conclude this chapter with Homer's description of Ithaca, which, in general, may be well applied to Corsica:
Eἰ δὴ τήνδε τε γαῖαν ἀνείρεαι. οὐδέ τι λίην
Oὕτω νώνυμός ἐστιν: ἴσασι δέ μιν μάλα πολλοί,
Hμὲν ὅσοι ναίουσι πρὸς ἠῶ τ᾽ ἠέλιόν τε,
Hδ᾽ ὅσσοι μετόπισθε ποτὶ ζόφον ἠερόεντα.
H τοι μὲν τρηχεῖα καὶ οὐχ ἱππήλατός ἐστιν,
Oὐδὲ λίην λυπρή, ἀτὰρ οὐδ᾽ εὐρεῖα τέτυκται.
Eν μὲν γάρ οἱ σῖτος ἀθέσφατος, ἐν δέ τε οἶνος
Γίγνεται: αἰεὶ δ᾽ ὄμβρος ἔχει τεθαλυῖά τ᾽ ἐέρση:
Aἰγίβοτος δ᾽ ἀγαθὴ καὶ βούβοτος: ἔστι μὲν ὕλη
Ππαντοίη, ἐν δ᾽ ἀρδμοὶ ἐπηετανοὶ παρέασι.
Tῷ τοι, ξεῖν᾽, Ἰθάκης γε καὶ ἐς Τροίην ὄνομ᾽ ἵκει,
Tήν περ τηλοῦ φασὶν Ἀχαιΐδος ἔμμεναι αἴης.
Thou seest: an island, not to those unknown,
Whose hills are brighten'd by the riling sun.
Nor those that plac'd beneath his utmost reign.
Behold him finking in the western main.
The rugged foil allows no level space,
For flying chariots, or the rapid race;
Yet, not ungrateful to the peasant's pain,
Suffices fulness to the levelling grain.
The loaded trees their various fruits produce.
And clustring grapes afford a generous juice:
Woods crown our mountains, and in every grove
The bounding goats and frisking heifers rove:
Soft rains and kindly dews refresh the field.
And rising springs eternal verdure yield.
Ev'n to those shores is Ithaca renown'd.
Where Troy's majestick ruins strow the ground.
- ↑ Plin. Nat. Hist. lib. ii. cap. 6.
- ↑ Pomp. Mel. lib. ii. cap. 7.
- ↑ Ptol. Geog. lib. iii. cap. 2.
- ↑ Flor. Lib. i. Cap. 16.
- ↑ Postlethwayt, in his translation of Savary's Dictionary of Trade and Commerce, has a most absurd observation concerning Calvi: 'Its inhabitants,' says he, 'are called Calves.' Who told him this? What connexion is there between the English word Calves and the Italian word Calvi? Perhaps he intended it as wit. If so, how clumsy are the jests of this Lexicographer!
- ↑ Cluver. Corsic. Antiq.
- ↑ Diodor. Sicul. lib. v.
- ↑ Present State of Europe, p. 411.
- ↑ There is a place in Guinea, which has also the name of Capo Corso: I know not from what. Cluver. Geog. p. 537.
- ↑ Cic. De Orat. lib. i. cap. 44.
- ↑ Diodor. Sicul. lib. v.
- ↑ Thuan. Hist. tom. i. p. 507.
- ↑ Ibid.
- ↑ Mr. Burnaby's Journal.
- ↑ Procop. de Bell. Goth. lib. iii. cap. 24.
- ↑ Polyb, hist, lib. xii.
- ↑ Procop. de Bell. Goth. lib. iii. cap. 24.
- ↑ Bochart Geog. Sac. pars i. lib, i. cap. 5.
- ↑ Theophrast. Hist. lib. v. cap. 9.
- ↑ Ib.
- ↑ Ib.
- ↑ I follow Scaliger's interpretation of ἄνεσις. He translates it Temperies.
- ↑ Liv. lib. xlli. cap. 7.
- ↑ Diodor. Sicul. lib. v. cap. 295.
- ↑ Plin. lib. xvi. cap. 16.
- ↑ Plin. Nat. Hist. lib. xvi. cap. 16.
- ↑ Graev. Thesaur. Antiq. vol. I. p. 1410.
- ↑ Corsica, Cor-sica. Cor, the heart; Sica, a stiletto, heart of steel.
- ↑ Lettres Juives. let. 53.